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#1
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Just a few quick thoughts regarding the OP’s inquiry. I agree that, with the exception of Pied Fact 42, there tends to be no premium between Piedmont and Sweet Cap backs; maybe a tiny bump for an SC Fact 649 overprint.
That said, some backs can be real tough sometimes. For example, I have found that SC 150 and 350, Factory 25, can be real tough with some player-fronts. I have paid more for those backs, but only bc I needed the front/back combo; I do not believe I will get my money back bc of the back if/when I go sell. Some people try to pump up the SC 350-460 fact 42. I think that’s crap. I would not pay a dime extra for that back. Finally, personally, I prefer series 150 to 350, because I like have the 1909 version over the 1910 version. Last edited by Rhotchkiss; 06-03-2020 at 04:57 PM. |
#2
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Appreciate all the thoughts and advice. I'm fascinated by the T206 set but you guys aren't kidding about how much there is to learn.
While I am somewhat "new" to vintage, I am not new to the hobby. I've pretty much decided to turn some modern stuff in to the "go to" vintage cards that people go to when they decide they want vintage...in low grade and centered decently. So far I've picked up a 48 Leaf Jackie, T206 Green Cobb, T206 Johnson Portrait, T206 Tolstoi Dark Cap Mathewson. |
#3
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In addition to common backs that become uncommon when paired with a specific player/pose/front, some backs are just more popular. T206, Polar Bear tends to go higher than its scarcity would suggest. I bid higher on them too, just because I like the back design.
Other sets, I will prefer to buy cards that have backs that match the other cards I have. I like having an all 1-brand set, even if that brand is not rare. |
#4
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Last edited by sreader3; 06-03-2020 at 09:07 PM. |
#5
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__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
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