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  #1  
Old 05-25-2020, 04:23 PM
Harliduck's Avatar
Harliduck Harliduck is offline
John Otto
J0hn Ot.to
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
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Here is my binders being stored...
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John Otto

1963 Fleer - 1981-90 Fleer/Donruss/Score/Leaf Complete
1953 - 1990 Topps/Bowman Complete
1953-55 Dormand SGC COMPLETE SGC AVG Score - 4.03

1953 Bowman Color - 122/160 76%

Last edited by Harliduck; 05-25-2020 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Pic too big
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2020, 05:13 PM
jgannon jgannon is offline
G@nn0n
G@nnon As.ip
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 286
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Interesting to hear the silver vs. platinum conversation as well as the flat vs. upright debate.

I'm storing my 64's in the silver. I can understand the criticism of them, as a couple of times, I accidentally ripped a right hand side on the right bottom corner.

I have some plastic sheets that I got years ago and they're a little thicker. I'd also like to get plastic sheets without the company's brand name on them. My old sheets were just clear plastic sheets. The Ultra Pro label is not that big, and doesn't really get in the way, but I'd just rather see the cards.
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2020, 05:36 PM
Ronnie73 Ronnie73 is offline
Ron Kornacki - Uncle Nacki
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I don't have a ton of binders like some have here but the sets I do have binders for, this is how I do it. I keep them standing up so I can easily access them. I use closest to the cheapest binder that I can find at Staples. I determine the thickness of the sheets with cards in them to hold a complete set and purchase a binder thickness that's equal to that measurement. This way when they are side by size on a shelf, the pages can't curl. For set's that are not complete and are in progress, I buy a cheap pad of paper and use it as a spacer until there's enough cards in the pages to fill the thickness of the binder. I usually use UltraPro pages. Cards that go in the pages are usually not valuable 10's. Cards from the 1980's probably average an 8 when coming out of a pack and into a pocket page. The little bit of movement of the cards will likely not affect the original grade they would have gotten. Lastly, I believe that pocket pages were meant to help enjoy the set you built, while keeping them clean and in order. They were never designed to replace a PSA case.
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Ron - Uncle Nacki

T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki
T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524
T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ????/5258
COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS
Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48
Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28
NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS
Polar Bear 245/250
Sovereign 460 50/52
Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34
Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11

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  #4  
Old 05-25-2020, 06:12 PM
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insidethewrapper insidethewrapper is offline
Mike
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Who sells binder cases ? thanks
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  #5  
Old 05-25-2020, 06:26 PM
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vintagebaseballcardguy vintagebaseballcardguy is offline
R0b3rt Ch!ld3rs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by insidethewrapper View Post
Who sells binder cases ? thanks
bindertek.com or archivalmethods.com

The former is cheaper.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
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  #6  
Old 05-31-2020, 02:33 PM
BigSix BigSix is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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A big thank you to the Net54baseball community for the input on storing the cards in binders. I will upgrade to the UltraPro Platinum sheets and look for binder slip cases for the albums.

All the Best
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  #7  
Old 05-25-2020, 05:26 PM
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Bigdaddy Bigdaddy is offline
+0m J()rd@N
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I generally use the Platinum sheets, though I had to look at a couple of boxes to make sure. I also buy my three ring D-binders at Costco - they are about $3 each in packs of three or four. Simple white binders with a clear pocket on the front, stored upright.

I've created cover sheets for each set as shown below:
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File Type: jpg Slide8.jpg (80.0 KB, 142 views)
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Working Sets:
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T206 SLers - Virginia League (-1)
1952 Topps - low numbers (-1)
1953 Topps (-66)
1954 Bowman (-3)
1964 Topps Giants auto'd (-2)
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