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#2
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For me, I'd say 1960 Fleer ATG provided the comment with "worth" relates to value. I'd say that about any most sets, really, if you're referring to resale value if you're buying one card at a time,. Then again, if you're plan is to hold them for the long-term and you're buying most vintage or pre war stuff, then it may make some sense.
From a value perspective, if you're patient, I do think you can both build and sell as set and make a return on the investment, even in the short term. In the past two years, I've put together a 41 Play Ball and 48 Bowman set. In both cases, I've sold them as complete sets and returned more than I paid for the parts. Patience and a little good luck on both ends of it was what paid off. I didn't buy at full value on all the cards but did on a few. In both sales, they were purchased to either upgrade an existing set or break up. Not sure how either ended from the buyer's perspective but do know they got pretty good stuff (48 Bowman was an overall 7 and 41 PB was a low 5 overall grade). |
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I'm a set builder, its just how I get enjoyment from this hobby. My vintage sets are all "mid grade" and raw. I can't be bothered to care much about condition, except for not wanting true beaters in my sets, which helps given my limited budget for cards.
My general rules before starting a set project are: 1) No sets with insanely high value cards in them (if I can't get, or at least aspire to one day getting, the key card in the set for under $300 in mid grade, the set is off my radar completely. If it has multiple key cards in that price range its also going to be off the list). 2) No sets with series that are scarce enough that mid grade commons are going to cost more than 10$ each, unless the overall number of cards in those series isn't too big, in which case I could go a bit higher. 3) No sets where the scarce series make up more than about 25% of the total. 4) No ugly sets.
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My blog about collecting cards in Japan: https://baseballcardsinjapan.blogspot.jp/ |
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