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#1
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I'm not 100% sure, but the 7th series checklist starts with #507. I would assume that is the official start of the highs...
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T206 Cubs. Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#2
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I am beginning to think that might be it....or it could be dealer's choice.
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#3
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If a dealer is trying to pass off a semi-high as a high...well ok, but that's kind of BS. There is a defined starting point for all of them. That being said, '65 high numbers aren't really notorious as difficult ones, so as long as you are not buying like uber high-end graded cards, I would not think they are going to be dramatically more expensive for commons.
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T206 Cubs. Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#4
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Yes, I think that the Semi-Hi moniker is sort of a marketing ploy. However, they do seem to command SLIGHTLY more than low numbers. The Hi #/SP Premium is still not much compared to say 1967 or 1966. I am returning to the world of Topps after a decade flopping around in the Tobacco Card end of the pool. I am just trying to confirm (relearn to some extent.). Thank You for your help. |
#5
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T206 Cubs. Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 10-11-2019 at 12:37 PM. |
#6
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I have always considered #507 as the starting point to the high number series.
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All the cool kids love my YouTube Channel:
Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
#7
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#8
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My first year collecting was 1986. I was 9. I probably spent more cash then on the 35 cent wax packs then than it would take to buy an entire, bindered-NM set today, but that's just the bad luck of the era in which I came of age. '65 Topps is a nice set. I'm now pondering whether to go after it as well as I finally now have decent Mantle base card from it for the first time in a long while...and I have the Carlton lying around somewhere at home as well.
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T206 Cubs. Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 10-11-2019 at 01:51 PM. |
#9
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Supposedly those numbered #371 and above were printed in slightly lesser volume than the lower numbered ones. However only the SPs (some of those from #523 on as Mike noted) really command any premium and even then not really much of one. AFAIK there is no "semi-hi" series/range.
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#10
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Commons lower than #371....slightly discounted because as it is for most years (with the exception of what...1958?) there is a glut of cards. As I recall, since most of the cards were sold by Mom n Pop Shops and 5 n 10's they would stock up on cards when they first were available, in some cases missing an entire Series or two by the time they re-ordered. Commons from #371 to 506... Regular Price...PERHAPS a quarter more than the low #s #507-#598... Hi#s, maybe 50% more than Regular Price and Short Prints perhaps twice that..... EX: $.75(Low).. $1 (#371-#506)....$1.50(Non-SP High)...$3 (SP). That seems to the formula as I remember it. I do not know if the pricing itself holds true these days..... |
#11
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The 5th, 6th, and 7th series in 1965 were each 77 card series. Series 7 goes from 523 to 598, plus another copy of 507. Series 6 goes from 446 to 522 plus another copy of check 6. One half of a sheet is known from series 7, and Cliff and I have worked out a likely 2nd half sheet. Very little of series 6 is known, while both half sheets from series 5 are known.
There are short prints in all three of these series, but the Sps are still relatively available. |
#12
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+1. I never could deduce which ones were probably SP's when I was building the set just by noting what was hard to come by. Every series in 1965 is thankfully easy
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#13
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The quick trick I've always used in my head is, if you visually take out the big red "7th SERIES" type and place it under the names at bottom, if it fits comfortably (right), then it's the small print checkie, if it doesn't fit (left), it's the large print version, as so...
1965checklistlargesmallprinttell.jpg
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All the cool kids love my YouTube Channel:
Elm's Adventures in Cardboard Land ![]() https://www.youtube.com/@TheJollyElm Looking to trade? Here's my bucket: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152396...57685904801706 “I was such a dangerous hitter I even got intentional walks during batting practice.” Casey Stengel Spelling "Yastrzemski" correctly without needing to look it up since the 1980s. Overpaying yesterday is simply underpaying tomorrow. ![]() |
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