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#1
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They should be just fine. Most of the cards from 68-70 come with both stocks. One is a regular light cream colored stock, the other is either a coated stock that looks very white, or they printed a white layer on the regular stock.
I haven't even completed those sets, let alone with both stocks, but I have enough to be fairly sure all cards from each set come both ways. I haven't measured the thickness, it's interesting if the whiter ones are thinner. |
#2
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1966 Topps has 2 stocks as well. Maybe the 1967 also, but am at work and don't have cards in front of me.
![]() I never got how people who collect white/grey backs as 'variations' for the '56 and '59 sets don't do so for the '66 set. But to each his own. |
#3
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What bugs me about thinner card stock in the early 1970's is those cards tend to slide around in mag cases pretty easily. I have some nice cards that I would like to protect / display better, but the only way to keep them from moving is the old reliable penny sleeve and toploader.
__________________
Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#4
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To ease your mind about counterfeits, I would put a loupe on the photo on the card to see if you see "pixels". If you do, then they are probably real. I have never see a counterfeits that had pixels.
Has anyone ever seen a counterfeit card that had the correct looking pixels under magnification? |
#5
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I have not. The counterfeiters are getting good with inkjet and laser printers in making cards that look decent from an arm's length - but up close or under magnification you can always tell. The proper term for the pixels is "halftone dots" and it was the process used back then.
__________________
Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
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