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#1
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Let me preface this by saying that this is outside of my area (so to speak), but as far as I know...
Then you're only measuring the height and width of the card. In some cases they're pressed and trimmed so the area ends up back where it started, but the total volume and mass of the card have decreased. That's harder to detect. It's not that there aren't ways that such slight changes can be detected (If you want to get fancy you could put the card in a chamber with a known amount of an inert gas and then measure the pressure inside the chamber to calculate the volume of the card) but that the normal variance in sizes of vintage cards is large relative to the amount of matter discarded in a slight trim/press, so even if you knew the mass of the card to the microgram it wouldn't be definitive. Some cards might be suspiciously flat, but even the thickness of the cards will have some variance that's just due to differences in humidity, storage practices, etc. over the years. |
#2
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I never measure a card....to me it’s eye and grain/edges...if you learn the grain/edges you will be able to tell discrepancies....that’s what bothers me so much with these wrongly slabbed and graded bad leaf 48 football cards....are these graders looking at grain?? Do the newer graders they have know what it is?
Last edited by Johnny630; 06-24-2019 at 08:53 AM. |
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#5
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I’m not aware of that....do you know for a fact that card trimmers have found a way to mimic a natural normal factory cut?? That’s news to me ???
I don’t think this is the reason why so many trimmed cards have been slabbed by graders I think it’s because the graders slabbing so many obvious short trimmed cards suck at their job. Last edited by Johnny630; 06-24-2019 at 11:20 AM. |
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#7
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How about measuring pixels between the black border on most cards. That is a standard number. Then measure pixels on the entire card including boarder. The ratio times the black border dimensions gives you the overall card measurements.
Will work for the PSA 8 Wagner too. |
#8
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Moser can also replicate a factory rough cut. Look in the Mantle thread for the 1952 Topps Look-N-See cards. Trimmed on the sides with "replaced" rough cuts.
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#9
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Through my years of experience, measuring a card is not a good indication. Many of the t206 cards for example are cut over and under sized. Most of the time it is obvious that you will see a wave in the card. Most of the time I look at the edges of the card. If you see any kind of a slight wave on the edge, it is altered. I know some people line the card up over a page of a book and can check the edge that way.
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Like this. Totally crooked, also entirely factory. |
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I'm not sure how I'd measure thickness while a card is in the slab. Out of a slab, a $40 digital caliper will give very accurate measurements of thickness, to check for pressing and retrimming corners, you'd want to measure the thickness somewhere in the interior of the card, and at all four corners. Then you also have to know how thick it should be. |
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I don't think I have ever measured a card through a holder?
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__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#13
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I don’t see the point in measuring. There are plenty of oversized cards that are trimmed down to normal standards and plenty of undersized cards that are not altered. Even an oversized card could be recolored or pressed.
You’re just replacing one flawed evaluation with another. What would you do with a card that measured small in the holder anyway - the seller has no responsibility to accept a return of a graded card. I would instead consider the provenance/history of the item, who is selling it, and compare with other examples from the set.
__________________
My flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/140288876@N04/albums |
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