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#1
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Being a new guy around here I’d like someone to elaborate on this claim. Do you have examples? I’d love to read about it.
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#2
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[QUOTE=Goudey77;1860759]Being a new guy around here I’d like someone to elaborate on this claim. Do you have examples? I’d love to read about it.[/QUOTE
Badgers game us on and I am not going into it, but somewhere here is a thread about a PSA 4, T206 Brown Old Mill that was for sale on eBay - first, it was not a brown old mill, it was mislabeled (a $15k+ mistake), plus if it was a brown OM it should not have gotten a numerical grade. That is one of many examples |
#3
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PSA is the best for old cards. But you do see a lot of auction companies using SGC now because the turn around times are so much better.
PSA or BGS is good for newer cards. In some cases BGS is preferred. |
#4
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My primary goal when I submit a card for grading is to increase its value. If you are going to invest additional funds into a collectible you own you certainly want to try and recoup your investment and then have some return on it. I do send in a few cards where I know I probably will lose but not many.
PSA dominates in general but there are obviously loads of cards in BGS and SGC holders that go for big money so you need to make the decision that best suites your interests. With vintage card collectors, virtually no one considers BVG as their first choice but they might choose SGC and on a modern card SGC would be their last choice. I made a conscious decision early on to build my collection in PSA slabs as they are the third party grader with the strongest brand and you can generally assume that if you start collecting a certain set that additional submissions will occur and you now have a more active chance to build your sets or fill spots in your collection. There are very few industries that exist where one participant has so much market share. In the card grading world it does and PSA is the dominating force. There is no getting around that point. People can debate all kinds of factors in regards to the companies but market share is just a real world stat that can't be disputed. The public has truly embraced graded collectibles so I would choose the route that best works for you and go with it. Last edited by Dpeck100; 03-07-2019 at 06:22 PM. |
#5
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Case in point (no pun intended) - check out the two e90-2 Wagners in REA. They are both graded 4 - one by PSA, one by SGC. In my opinion, the SGC is the superior card, yet it is currently sitting at $1,000 less than it’s PSA counterpart.
People will pay more for the PSA flip (case), even if the card is inferior to one in an SGC case. I will take the superior card for less in an SGC case all day long on vintage (pre 1920 cards), especially if it’s rare. If I collected “new” cards (i.e., 1930 and newer), I would want the card in s PSA flip just bc the cards are commodities and the market values these commodities more in a PSA flip. Also, I just trust SGC’s authentication skills more on the really old stuff. BTW- I own neither Wagner. Last edited by Rhotchkiss; 03-07-2019 at 07:12 PM. |
#6
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I was looking at those Wags too. People are idiots.
If it is a registry card then PSA. If not, then I would go with someone else. Personally, I won't submit to PSA again as I don't think they grade as well as the other 2. And even though I don't think they grade as well as SGC or BVG their marketing apparently makes up for it. People are idiots. Buy the holder LOL Quote:
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 03-08-2019 at 06:51 AM. |
#7
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While there are many threads about TPGs on the board, I think it's useful every so often to re-ignite the discussion as things evolve and change. In the past six months, just look at the various threads here and on BO about trimmed cards, forgeries, etc. in slabs. Plus, grading criteria seem to change over time, and there are changes in flips, slabs, etc. It's useful to reexamine things from time to time.
That said, the most universal advice in the debate (which is hammered on here and rightfully so) is "buy the card and not the slab." And part of that includes taking responsibility for understanding the issue, doing your research and drawing your own conclusions from the photos (or from a first-hand view if you go to a show, LCS, etc.). Another aspect is to develop your own preferences on what you want with centering, wear, etc. in the issues you're looking for. If you can hone your skills on pegging condition, understand the card issue's red flags and adhere to your own preferences and values, it will matter so much less what company sealed the card in plastic. |
#8
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