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#1
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I have some 1973 OPC Baseball cards in PSA 10 holders and all the cards have ruff cuts. So as others have said, it depends on what's normal when a card leaves the printer. On a side note, what about all those wax pack fresh off center cards? Should those be 10's as well? I guess we are back to: Buy The Card and Not The Holder.
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Ron - Uncle Nacki T206 Master Monster Front/Back Set Collector - www.youtube.com/unclenacki T206 Basic "The Monster" Set 514/524 T206 Advanced "Master Monster" Front/Back Set ?? ![]() COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Old Mill Southern Leagues - Black Ink 48/48 Sweet Caporal 350-460 Factory 30 Full Color "No Prints" 28/28 NEAR COMPLETE T206 BACK SUBSETS Polar Bear 245/250 Sovereign 460 50/52 Sweet Caporal 150 Factory 649 Overprint 31/34 Piedmont 350 "Elite 11" 9/11 |
#2
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I thought of this (factory) issue too. That said a print defect is from the printer too, which was part of the question? I think that question was "why count off for one factory issue and not the other?", or vice versa.
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#3
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I wish I were one of those "true factory" type collectors who could be totally satisfied with the argument that "well, that's the way the card was made" 100% of the time, but I'm not. What sucks for me is I'm not strictly a centering guy or a corner guy in terms of preferences - I do both and it often depends on the individual card I am considering. Some look ok off-centered or with other issues to me, some don't. I don't know why - but I've always been that way.
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Prewar Cubs. Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
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