recent auto counterfeits - the effects on auto collecting??

[irv]

Originally Posted by Vintageclout

Give or take, that is indeed the difference between a Ruth ball w/an overall PSA 8 vs. 9 grade. Absolutely. FYI, the large disparity in pricing is due to the minimal number of PSA 9 single signed Ruth balls in circulation. They are few and far between. A PSA 8 ball is great, but they are not extremely rare at the 8 grade. Once again, similar to a high-grade baseball card with a low pop, pricing is based on supply vs. demand. There are many eccentric enthusiasts that crave to own a Mint 9 Ruth ball, with minimal opportunities to capture one.

As I don't play the auto game, exactly what differences are they looking for that are noticed between a sig designated an 8 or a 9?

It seems silly to me, but that's jmo, on how a sig can be designated a grade the same way a card can be?

I can understand an old faded one compared to a well preserved one but if say, Ruth for example signed it, what makes his signature less worthy compared to other ones he has signed?

I don't know about anyone else, but if I had a proven, beyond a reasonable doubt, signed Ruth card or ball, I really don't think I'd be concerning myself with how well it was written by him.

[SMPEP]

I guess I'm lucky as this doesn't affect me at all.

I never understood why someone would pay top money for a pristine card, but would also pay top money for a card with writing on it because it was "autographed".

Either we as collectors think pristine cards have value or we as collectors think cards with writing (call them "autographs" instead of graffiti if you prefer) have value. But to my mind ... you CAN'T have both be valuable. They are contradictions of each other!!!

Actually in truth, I never understood why you would pay a premium for either a pristine or autographed card.

So, as a result - I never buy either. And I've never made any money off of my hobby - but I've also never lost any!

I can live with that.

Cheers,
Patrick

[Vintageclout]

Originally Posted by irv

As I don't play the auto game, exactly what differences are they looking for that are noticed between a sig designated an 8 or a 9?

It seems silly to me, but that's jmo, on how a sig can be designated a grade the same way a card can be?

I can understand an old faded one compared to a well preserved one but if say, Ruth for example signed it, what makes his signature less worthy compared to other ones he has signed?

I don't know about anyone else, but if I had a proven, beyond a reasonable doubt, signed Ruth card or ball, I really don't think I'd be concerning myself with how well it was written by him.

As you know, the value of virtually everything in the hobby is highly driven by optics/aesthetics. A graded Ruth ball has two variables: the grade for the ball and the grade for the signature, from which a “TOTAL GRADE” is calculated. Typically, it’s a simple formula: (Ball Grade + Auto Grade)/2. However, PSA will give half bumps based on excellent eye appeal. For instance, a 6 ball grade and 7 signature grade with super eye appeal may be given an overall 7 grade (vs. the 6.5 formula grade) if PSA feels the overall aesthetics merit a bump. Totally subjective. Regarding whether a signature should be graded an 8 or 9, we are unfortunately at the mercy of the authenticators. I’ve seen 8s that should be 9s and vice-versa. No different than the ongoing complaints we hear from collectors who are upset with their card submission grades/assessments.