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#1
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Snapolit1 - I should have been more precise... Commons / Semi Stars / High Numbers. NM or Better ( some are OC). And yes I could pm someone directly but I pretty open about this as i am still TBD :-P
300-400 (no dups) High Grade raw 1957's Topps (Parcial Set) 200 (no dups) High Grade raw 1954's (parcial Set) 300 (no dups) high Grade raw 1959's (Parcial Set) |
#2
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I would post some scans and you might get more opinions. Your definition of high grade may be different than my definition of high grade.
PS, it's partial ![]() |
#3
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OP - I think youll get killed at an auction house, they take 20% bud.
If you go that route I would go with a smaller AH so your cards can be front and center, selling singles and I believe Sterling only takes 10% and Lee has a good name. In the bigger venues I fear they'd get lost in the shuffle and you want someone that focuses on that era, vintage guys will just blow by those as I do. If they are as nice as you say then they need their own audience. Also...the BST here can fulfill a lot of needs, just be transparent and up front...but this place can go crickets as well if no one is beating your door down. Real high grade 50s stuff should sell themselves... |
#4
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I had a nearly complete set of W572 strip cards and Heritage charged me 5%. REA also was only going to charge 10%. And as it was an unusual collection, Love of the Game would have done it for free. I went with the big name in auctions and did as I expected so I am quite happy. I do have some other stuff that I am ready to consign so I probably will go with LOTG or REA as it is not as critical that I get big numbers for what I have. It just depends but nobody charged 25%.
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Favorite MLB quote. " I knew we could find a place to hide you". Lee Smith talking about my catching abilities at Cubs Fantasy camp. |
#5
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Deciding on what auction house to consign to requires you doing your homework. Small auctions offer lower buyer's fees and a more prominent place for your material, but often have poor, or in some cases no, physical catalogs, and smaller mailing lists. My advice is always to go with the largest auction house which will accept your material and be willing to work with you on commissions. Obviously, the higher the quality of your material, the better the deal you will get.
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#6
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I think if you want to sell and maximize your profits, you should get them graded. Maybe just pick a few of the better cards. If you aren't in a hurry, get a cheaper, slower grading option. But I think that in your case the grading may be more important than the AH you use.
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#7
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I've had good luck with Huggins and Scott.
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#8
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No one charges 25% to my knowledge. |
#9
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Ed Collecting PCL, Southern Association, and type cards. http://hangingjudgesports.com |
#10
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I think you have to consider where people looking for your cards are most likely to be visiting. Check prior sales at Huggins, Heritage and REA (for example) for what you have, and see what the bidding activity was, and how much similar cards went for. I have had great experiences consigning to Brockelman and Sterling. But, my wife knows that Brian Dwyer at REA is who to call if I die and the kids don’t want the cards.
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Galleries and Articles about T206 Player Autographs www.SignedT206.com www.instagram.com/signedT206/ @SignedT206 |
#11
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Thanks guys for the advice....And your right condition is all in the eye of the beholder. but as I am a condition junky... i just looked at it like this....the auction houses take 20%...ish. but they also net a high price.....like PWCC or REA or what ever they will get a high price for the card as they will get by default more traffic.
if they net a higher price... add in my time to list them... if i am taking a loss but i gain time it makes sense to me. :-) thanks for all of the advice guys. |
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