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#1
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As far as what to do that is a personal choice. You did win the item for the price you would pay. On the other hand if you think something shady is going on do you really want to enable them even more? EDIT: I forgot to add what I would do. At this time I am just a collector so the seller would be added to my list of sellers I would not buy from again. It is just a hobby for me and I do not need to enable the scum. Now if I was still selling cards to support myself I would pay for the card if I thought I could make $ on it. Making a buck seems to cloud peoples judgement pretty easily. Last edited by bnorth; 11-16-2017 at 06:52 AM. |
#2
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I would not pay and report the auction.
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#3
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Bobby - I agree with you and I'm going to take it further. |
#4
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Id contact the seller and renegotiate for what the price should have been. If not, I wouldn't pay and report the auction. If he does send the card at the new price I would still report the seller. The last thing I would do is just pay the price, you were screwed.
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#5
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__________________
RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
#6
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I am curious how he manages never to win the items with 0 retractions. I know he can win and simply not pay, but it doesn't sound like that happens here. Jantz, if you look at the sold listings does the same card show up a lot?
__________________
Collection: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359235@N05/sets/ For Sale: https://www.flickr.com/photos/132359...7719430982559/ Ebay listings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/harrydoyle/...p2047675.l2562 |
#7
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It seems obvious what is going on here. I would out the seller here so that we can all avoid him. And just another example of why I only snipe-bid on eBay.
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Last edited by Bliggity; 11-16-2017 at 08:20 AM. |
#8
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Take your example of a auction currently at $500. Ebay bidding increments state (I think) that the next bid has to be at least $10 over, so if they try to shill bid at $510, it is entirely possible the previous high bid was only $505 and now the shill becomes the high bidder. But that never once happened on 195 items and 833 bids. I do believe something is up here, but I dont think its as straight forward as blind shill bidding. Last edited by markf31; 11-16-2017 at 09:52 AM. |
#9
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I would pay for the item and move on. You readily admitted that the bid you placed was the maximum amount you were willing to pay. The salient point is that "my winning bid was exactly the amount I was willing to pay, right down to the exact cent.". You said that you could have had it at a lower price if not for the shenanigans. That is just a guess based on certain dynamics of an auction. There is no way of knowing if there may have been someone else watching who was going to bid late and saw it rise to a point above what they were willing to pay and did not enter a bid. I have no doubt that the seller is playing games, either using several accounts or in collusion with someone else. The people that go to that much trouble have learned to game the system. You can chose to not bid with this person again, bid using a snipe program or wait until the last 10 seconds or so which is what I usually do.
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'Integrity is what you do when no one is looking' "The man who can keep a secret may be wise, but he is not half as wise as the man with no secrets to keep” |
#10
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__________________
On the lookout for Billy Sullivan Jr. and Sr. memorabilia |
#11
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As to the poster's question, my actions would most likely be dictated by how tough the item is to obtain, whether I was not greatly dissatisfied with the price I paid and set as my maximum, etc. One thing I definitely would not do is bid with that seller again! May your collecting bring you the joy it is supposed to, Larry |
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