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#1
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There are major auction houses that will not charge you a seller's fee for auctioning a $1,500 - 2,000 item, assuming the AH will not have to do an unusual amount of work with it. I suggest you contact several, and don't hesitate to negotiate.
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Seeking very scarce/rare cards for my Sam Rice master collection, e.g., E210 York Caramel Type 2 (upgrade), 1931 W502, W504 (upgrade), W572 sepia, W573, 1922 Haffner's Bread, 1922 Keating Candy, 1922 Witmor Candy Type 2 (vertical back), 1926 Sports Co. of Am. with ad & blank backs. Also 1917 Merchants Bakery & Weil Baking cards of WaJo. Also E222 cards of Lipe, Revelle & Ryan. |
#2
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Agreed....shop around.
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#3
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Shop around, I have done items in that range several times and never paid a sellers premium, also my buyers premiums were in the 13-20% range.
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#4
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Thanks for the responses everyone. Ordinarily I think I'd definitely ask for a reduced fee or no fee, but with this particular sale I essentially have almost nothing into the item and I feel like it should sell for at least $1,500, so I am actually content with the fee this time around and to get my foot in the door. Appreciate all your insight.
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#5
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pm sent
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#6
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I have consigned to a place with contract, and also a AH where there was no contract. I didn't even ask about fees, just let them handle it.
However, a big point I make to consigners is to make sure you write out the important parts about the lot, especially if it's an esoteric item or group lot. Don't assume that the AH will catch it all, know all the details and make all the good points-- in part because they don't have limitless time |
#7
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I just went through this process for the first time and posted about it. The link to the thread is below, but here are some key takeaways:
1) For an item that is $1500-$2000 that does not require much work (ie. it is already authenticated; it does not require them to do additional research etc) there is no reason not to ask them to wave the consignment fee. They are doing almost no work with the item and taking on no risk. It doesn't matter that you have little money in it. They don't give you more money if you have a lot of money in it. Simply tell them that you think they are an elite auction house but you are speaking to a couple of others and given the ease of listing the item, are looking for one who is willing to work with you on this. 2) If there are "non-obvious" factors about the baseball, make sure to provide them for them. I won a baseball used in the 1945 Navy All-Star Game. It also happened to be signed by Wimpy Quinn, one of the toughest signers of the 40's. This latter detail was not mentioned. I also won a Negro League signed baseball referred to as "Jackie Robinson and others." Some research tied all the players to the 1953 Barnstorming Tour that he did. Make sure you've done your research and share that info with them. Don't assume they will do it at the level you want. 3) Consider if the item will sell as well on eBay. For many cards, eBay provides a similar sale price but is quicker and has lower fees. You can list yourself or have a consignor list on eBay. 4) Make sure you are comfortable with the timetable. Auction houses often need the item a decent amount of time in advance to the auction, and it may take a few weeks for payment after the fact. Here is the link to the thread I started: http://www.net54baseball.com/showthread.php?t=240100 |
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