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Where is the printing plate material located? Last edited by rainier2004; 05-04-2017 at 12:03 PM. |
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Counterfeits are easy to identify, because not only to they have to use the original printing technology, but there are tens and tens of things and details they have to exactly duplicate. A forgery of a brand new (made up/fantasy) item could be different, because it doesn't have to perfectly match anything and there's no original for direct comparison.
The future perfect counterfeit of a T206 Wagner or Plank is of no concern to me, because I don't think it can happen. When I think of a hard to identify as fake future forgery, it would be of something like an '1800s' ad poster or trade card, where they forger used the original lithography techniques to make it. But, beyond that they usually look bad to the seasoned collector, i can say that 99.9% of counterfeits, reprints and forgeries of Pre-WWI cards and baseball memorabilia are definitely identified because they are printed with the wrong (modern) printing. Last edited by drcy; 05-04-2017 at 12:39 PM. |
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A lot of simple, easy to look for qualities helps identify counterfeits. For just one example, one of the hardest things to duplicate on a reprint or counterfeit is the original gloss.
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How did tobacco companies, over 100 years ago, create cards that cannot be duplicated today (with our modern technology)? What did they do then, that we can't do now?
Last edited by Bpm0014; 05-04-2017 at 12:53 PM. |
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I can't think of a good analogy, but modern and antique printing technology are mutually exclusive, just as the words modern and antique are mutually exclusive.
You identify and date the printing technology by looking at the printing at the microscopic level, not the naked eye level. So a digital printing technology (say a laser printer) can make a great reproduction at the naked eye level, but is identified as modern printing under the microscope. |
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It's much easier for counterfeiters to focus on the old style TPG slabs and flips which are much simpler to replicate. Then you could put a fake card inside one of those slabs or an altered or overgraded genuine card. And of course, restoring, altering, trimmed cards are a problem in the hobby. I don't doubt that. However, I don't see the absolute population of the cards increasing due to counterfeiting techniques. About the comment that in the 70s/80s, these cards just weren't seen, I think a lot of that is due to the internet now. Back then, you had no idea what was out there, and now you can just go to ebay and google the card, and you can see many instances of it immediately. Folks are more likely now to know what they have and not throw it out since they can quickly check the internet and know it is actually worth $$$$. Also with all of the auctions always going on, it may seem like there is a Ruth rookie on auction all of the time. However, the total population is still only around 100-200, which is really not a lot when you consider there are over 300 million people in the US, and even if it's only the 1%'ers that can afford these cards, that's still a lot more people than cards out there. Anyway, I'm not saying the card market can't collapse, because it definitely can even for rare prewar cards. You can look at some of the card prices from 2007/08, and there are still some cards that have not returned to those prices that they sold back then. However, if the overall card market does collapse, I think it'd more be due to macroeconomic effects of the economy such as if we go into another strong recession as opposed to a TPG like PSA going under. Because even if the slab is now worthless, people still want the card inside it. A couple of caveats: I make no comment on high grade cards or vintage/modern cards which have populations in the thousands or much higher. I also can't understand the current market prices there at all, so can't say where those will go. |
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And even if it were possible ta somehow get by or around this major issue, You still have the Papar Problem! Ovar the Years From What I have found, We Simply Don't Know How the Papar was produced. To think that someone in todays techno world could easily figure this out is Truly an immense project. And iN Reality... No one would spend the Time, Effort & Money ta do So! Only to Come uP Short of Victory!!! I have looked at and discuss the material that is comprised within T206's, E90-1's & T205's wit a friend of mine(Who's Family own's one of the Largest Printin Co.'s in New York, His Great Grand Father start'd the Co. RiGHT Around 1901), And wit All His Knowledge, antique museum material, along wit his family past antique equipment, The whole bunch of'em are Clueless to how the papar was process'd/made! Sure there are those wit well educated theory's... Howevar, has Anyone replicated their theory inta a product & proved it can be done? Kinda like Buildin a Viking longship or even replicatin their steel... The World's Best have tried and fail'd! LookiN at the Side view of a T206, under a 50x optic can be Truly FasinatiN... If You havn't tried it as of yet, Giv'er a Go... ![]()
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Life's Grand, Denny Walsh Last edited by irishdenny; 05-04-2017 at 03:20 PM. |
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You'd need to - Be an expert on the materials used in several areas, and be able to use modern equipment to identify exactly what you need to make. Be an expert on paper and how it's made. Be able to replicate on a small scale what was done on a large scale. (Papermill vs handmade paper. ) Create the paper pulp - same sort of fibers, same fiber lengths and quality. Create the sizing- Create the coating for the front. The closest paper I've found is comic book backing boards, which are too thick, but will pass most ordinary examinations. But that paper isn't really the same. Next, be an expert on the inks. Figure out from spectrographic analysis what the carrier/hardener was and what the pigments were. Then obtain those. Not as easy as it seems, some in 1910 were probably early synthetic dyes, which may not be made anymore. So you need to be a chemist as well to recreate those. Be an expert printer. Litho stones, how to lay them out, then you need a vintage press.... Recreate the original art. Pretty difficult. You need an original to work from to get it exact. And after all that, the dating will never show it up as old. Could a card be made that would pass a cursory examination by someone who really knew cards? Yes. Could one be made undetectable? No. The closest I've ever seen was shown to me in maybe 82-83. A very nice 51 Mantle. Nicer than any 51 Bowman I'd ever seen. The dealer I hung out at handed it to me and asked what I thought. No opinion expressed either way. After a few minutes maybe 5-10 I gave it back and said it was a wonderful fake but I couldn't explain why I knew it was fake other than it just seemed "wrong" . That was his opinion as well, and that of I think at least 5 other dealers. Today I could probably figure out why it seemed wrong. Steve B |
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No doubt fraud follows money around, but I imagine most of the perception that these [NM-MT pre-war] cards just weren't around in the 70s and 80s is because people were looking at all of the cards that could fit on the tables in a hotel ballroom or the counter of a 500 square foot card shop as opposed to all of the cards that can fit on the internet. I'm sure it was different for some of you guys, but I think I saw maybe one T206 a year in the 80s, compared to hundreds of thousands of Topps, Donruss, and Fleer cards. Now I can easily view 1000 or more T206s every day. If 0.1% of them survived in NM or better condition into the 80s then I would probably have encountered none of them at that time (and I didn't) but would see them quite often now (and I do).
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Stuff produced after the change to aluminum might be marginally harder, but there isn't much difference between the 30's and 80's. Steve B |
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