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#1
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My experience (mjohnatgt) is that sellers get the best volume of sales when they're running a sale on the site. I run sales anywhere between 30-50% off, and consider offers down to the site minimum of 50% off. I accept probably 75% of all offers that come in, and I normally counter-offer any I don't accept. So if I buy a card to flip on site, I have to double or triple the price on it so that when it sells during a sale, I don't lose money on it. There are many times where those cards sell through eBay or Amazon at full price, even when I'm running a sale on COMC for 40% off. COMC sales do not propagate pricing to eBay or Amazon. So I could have a card with a regular price of $100 on COMC discounted to $60. It will actually show up on eBay as $110 because they embed the shipping/insurance cost on cards over $25 into the card price, so that they can claim they offer free shipping.
For the OP, obviously the guy who is charging you 3 cents extra is a jerk. Some people don't accept their minimum offers on every card because they don't want to lose money on a specific card. COMC keeps track of what you bought each card for, so you can see if you turn a profit on it. Some people hate taking a loss on any card; I have actually taken a loss of $100 on a card before on COMC. It was a Johnny Manziel auto card that I had sent to Beckett. So if someone offers me a half price offer on a card I spent more on, I might counter them to just over my purchase price. On the flip side, I've bought many cards on COMC for 10% of what I have them listed for on COMC. Most of those I either bought in a liquidation "port" sale for 10-20% of the entire lot price so I have a lot of profit embedded, or I have picked them up when sellers run sales on their cards from 75-90% off. People have different strategies. I have no problem accepting half off offers for those cards.
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-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#2
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What is COMC ?
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#3
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#4
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![]() Quote:
I did purchase my Feller card there for a very decent price, imo, but the majority of the time, the cards are priced so high I do even bother putting in an offer as I assume the seller will laugh at me.
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 |
#5
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Yeah, the cheapest I seem to pick up 1952 Topps baseball for is $3-5 for uncreased cards. That's the thing about in-demand sets. When the top cards go on sale, they get sold quickly.
https://www.comc.com/Promotions/Sale,sp Here is the sales page, sorted by percent off. Many of them are way overpriced and then heavily discounted, but some sellers run sales that are actually worth it. I'm at 40% off through Sunday right now. The flash guy that has "90%" off has some mid-grade 1953 Bowmans for $5-15 each now, which is probably reasonable.
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#6
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I was trying to filter or remove cards/dealers (Dean's) that I wasn't interested in but when I managed to do something, I got a whole bunch of reprints and those newer as like cards. Truth be told, I got frustrated after putting a couple cards in my cart, and logged off. Searching through page after page is tiresome. I just wish there was a better way of downsizing/reducing and looking strictly at the cards I want to look at instead of all these reprints and anything else that remotely looks like a 52 Topps card. Any tips on how to how to achieve that, if possible, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ![]()
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 |
#7
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https://www.comc.com/Cards/Baseball/...-_Base,sc,i100
Here's the direct link to the 1952 Topps baseball set. If you click on any card from the set you're interested in, and click the link at the top of the page for the set it's in, it will take you to only that set. The other way to do it is to use the menu bar on the left and click the "Baseball", then "1950s" and it will take you to only cards made in the 1950s. I don't know how to eliminate Dean's cards from coming up in the search, but they're easy to ignore since the raw cards all have black backgrounds.
__________________
-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
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