Was told to post these T-206's here for help so...

[swarmee]

Look at the back of #10: it is a factory "overprint" back because there is an additional bar with circular swirls that is covering up the previous factory information. Then the new factory was printed below the frame. Some collectors who are going for complete back runs would value these a little more highly. Don't sleep on the factory numbers or series (150, 350, 460) because these variations are what a lot of T206 fans love collecting, and will pay a premium for.
Since I usually pay about $7/card for bulk submission grading, that's why I recommended grading cards at VG condition or better. If you pay more to have yours graded, maybe just go for VG/EX or EX commons.

[EYECOLLECTVINTAGE]

Originally Posted by swarmee

http://www.psacard.com/smrpriceguide...te-border/1055

Cards with a pinhole should automatically grade a Poor 1 from PSA. Maybe a 1.5 from SGC.
I would think any card you think is VG or better or a Hall of Famer is worth grading. That's a great start to a collection!

You're the man. You're of of the guys who's helped me a lot here.

Originally Posted by Pat R

Hi Stephen,

If you're eventually looking to sell, the Hall of famers and the Lundgren would
be the only ones that would be worth grading as far as getting a return on
the grading fees.

I think you have the Tinker (Hands on Knees) and Bat on shoulder back scans
mixed up.

Thanks. Ugh!! Crap you're right they are mixed up.

Originally Posted by Luke

Yeah, what Pat said. T206 are pretty easy to figure out values for. Just look at completed sales on ebay. You have a lot of $15-35 commons and some $60-$200 HOFers. The Chance yellow and Brown OM look pretty nice. Definitely grade those (unless you only have a few cards to send in and the costs will add up to like $35 each)

Appreciate the feedback!

Originally Posted by swarmee

Look at the back of #10: it is a factory "overprint" back because there is an additional bar with circular swirls that is covering up the previous factory information. Then the new factory was printed below the frame. Some collectors who are going for complete back runs would value these a little more highly. Don't sleep on the factory numbers or series (150, 350, 460) because these variations are what a lot of T206 fans love collecting, and will pay a premium for.
Since I usually pay about $7/card for bulk submission grading, that's why I recommended grading cards at VG condition or better. If you pay more to have yours graded, maybe just go for VG/EX or EX commons.

You might have to school me more on these when you have time.

[KMayUSA6060]

Reference for the different backs...

http://www.t206resource.com/Backs%20Gallery.html

... and their scarcity rankings...

http://www.t206resource.com/Back%20Rankings%20List.html

[EYECOLLECTVINTAGE]

Originally Posted by kmayusa6060

reference for the different backs...

http://www.t206resource.com/backs%20gallery.html

... And their scarcity rankings...

http://www.t206resource.com/back%20rankings%20list.html

oh snap! Fresh

[EYECOLLECTVINTAGE]

Ok heres a question...

Old Mill (Southern Leagues) - Brown

How do you know if it's brown or black faded.

I included 2 photos of my old mill backs..

Are either of these brown?

If so what value is added?

[ullmandds]

bottom one is definitely black...top looks faded black.

[ullmandds]

i thought brown om's were the sl'er back?