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#1
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Yeah and when you get to high end autographs you're talking about guys who tend to get forged at a high rate by scammers. I'd never buy a Trout card unauthenticated because his signature isn't all that complex. Same goes for someone like Michael Jordan. It just doesn't make sense for a serious buyer to buy something unslabbed. Maybe the casual observer who wants to get a deal more than they want an authentic signature, but I think most advanced collectors would pass.
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#2
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As a counterpoint to the comments so far, I have sent only one card in for slabbing ever and it was to sell in the short term. I will never send any card, or any auto for that matter, I intend to keep, in for slabbing/authentication. Why? 1) I don't need it. I only buy autos from people I trust or signatures that I feel very confident in. Having a mystery authenticator tell me that my item is real means nothing. If I buy something from Jim Stinson, Richard Simon, Bill Corcoran, Kevin Keating, and a few others I know that they have looked at it and That is enough. When anyone sends to PSA there is no way to know who authenticated it. All the confidence in them comes from their incredibly efficient and effective marketing plan. Please tell which experienced/advanced collector trusts Steve Grad or even Jim Spence? Why don't you all listen to the person with the most advanced HOF auto collection that I am aware of? He is a member here and if you read his posts carefully, you will see how relieved he is that Keating and Corcoran are now working for PSA. 2)I can always do it later when I go to sell them. As a matter of fact, I won't have to. When I die and my family sends my stuff to an auction house to liquidate, except for perhaps Lelands, they will automatically send it all to whichever authenticator they are working with to get certed in some way. I hear people describe how they are worried about their families getting screwed by not having their stuff preauthenticated. Nonsense. Make a list with instructions for how to liquidate the collection. Do you really think your family is going to list your collection one by one on ebay? You really think they are going to want to deal with the hassle of listing, shipping, dealing with deadbeats and chargebacks? Not likely. If you want to make it easy, have them ship it to one of the big AHs and let them do the work. Plus my way saves you boatloads of money that you can spend buying more autographed cards. Slab/Cert right before you are going to sell to maximize profits on the sale. Keep the rest raw. In the OP's case, I would not unslab the ones you already paid for, but probably wouldn't send any more. Ultimately, spend your money onwhatever makes you happy.
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My signed 1934 Goudey set(in progress). https://flic.kr/s/aHsjFuyogy Other interests/sets/collectibles. https://www.flickr.com/photos/96571220@N08/albums My for sale or trade photobucket album https://flic.kr/s/aHsk7c1SRL Last edited by Lordstan; 10-27-2016 at 11:26 PM. |
#3
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You're talking about one thing while I'm talking about another. If you want to say a serious buyer will buy something to keep without a TPA because they know it's authentic, that has no relationship to the person selling the item who has already said they don't want to leave money on the table. Many serious collectors buy from reputable auction houses and every item comes with either an AH cert or a TPA cert. Buying your way limits you to 4 or 5 potential vendors, which is not a reality for collectors as a whole. We will buy from anyone so long as we're comfortable with the item, which often comes down to paper work.
What you're talking about is how you'd like the hobby to operate but that is not the reality of the hobby. Last edited by packs; 10-28-2016 at 08:37 AM. |
#4
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None of us know if the slabs that the OP cards reside in will be in demand at the time he decides to sell or if they will be considered a badge of shame by that time (at which point it would be wise to crack them out THEN and do whatever was necessary to increase marketability and "value" at that time.) It doesn't hurt anything IMHO to leave them slabbed for now, but for your unslabbed cards, I don't see a benefit to having then slabbed right now if you have no intention of trading or selling them in the near future. Last edited by thenavarro; 10-28-2016 at 02:35 PM. |
#5
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#6
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Just wanted to say I really appreciate this discussion as I am in the same boat and trying to decide whether to lay down many thousands of dollars to get my stuff slabbed. Wise advice here
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#7
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You said "It just doesn't make sense for a serious buyer to buy something unslabbed. Maybe the casual observer who wants to get a deal more than they want an authentic signature, but I think most advanced collectors would pass." My reply was that serious buyers are the buyers who need slabbing and authentication the least. Serious buyers buy things in auction houses all the time. Not because they are certed. The auction houses have decided to slab everything because 1) items across the board sell for more money(which I acknowledged in my answer), 2) it limits their liability. The casual buyers are much less likely to have their items re looked at by anyone else when the items come with a cert, 3) There is a mutually beneficial relationship between authentication companies and Auction Houses. Auction Houses can claim/imply they are selling something more guaranteed because of the cert and the TPAs can reinforce their legitimacy because they are "accepted" by Auction Houses. If you don't believe me, just read the PSA and JSA website. The number one reason they list is that they are accepted by all the auction houses.(http://www.psacard.com/About/WhyPSAAndPSADNA/#whypsadna) Does this make them bad, NOT AT ALL. It also doesn't mean you absolutely NEED them to tell you your autos are good either. If he is keeping them in his collection, how does slabbing help the OP? Does it make them more real? No. Slabbing/certing only helps him when he sells, so why not wait until he is ready to sell them to do it? Why spend the money now when he won't get any return on that investment for years or more and the return he gets will not be higher then because he had them slabbed now as opposed to later. Here is an example. Suppose, instead of slabbing 50 cards at $20 per, you bought 5 Trout signed rookies back in 2011. Previously someone said they are $500-600 per on ebay. So that $1000 that would have gone into slabbing got you ZERO return, but those 5 Trout cards are now worth $2500-3K minus $100 to slab them just before you sell them. Quote:
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My signed 1934 Goudey set(in progress). https://flic.kr/s/aHsjFuyogy Other interests/sets/collectibles. https://www.flickr.com/photos/96571220@N08/albums My for sale or trade photobucket album https://flic.kr/s/aHsk7c1SRL |
#8
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I just had my whole 52 set graded psa red flip with card grade to keep them all uniform. It's pertinent for the set registry, and will probably be better at some point if Indecide to sell. That being said, if you couldn't care less about the registry, and aren't selling, different slabs are fine.
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"Trolling Ebay right now" © Always looking for signed 1952 topps as well as variations and errors |
#9
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#10
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So then what makes you believe that a good forger couldn't reproduce that absurd squiggle and fool a TPA?
Last edited by David Atkatz; 10-29-2016 at 12:55 PM. |
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