Whats the most you'll feel comfortable paying for an ungraded prewar card?

[GasHouseGang]

It's funny, but back in the days of 200 page SCD issues and no Internet, you were at the mercy of the written description. Now I want scans and really need to trust the seller. I've bought some expensive raw cards from some of the folks on this board and never been disappointed.

[pclpads]

Zip. Too many card docs out there. If it has value, it is likely slabbed.

[conor912]

Originally Posted by pclpads

Zip. Too many card docs out there. If it has value, it is likely slabbed.

While you're likely more right than wrong, there is still a ton of amazing raw stuff out there, mostly in old-timer collections.

I would spend a couple hundred dollars on a raw eBay card with good scans and a solid return policy from an unknown to me, yet reputable, dealer (i.e. not Battlefield). I once ended up striking up a lengthy month long email conversation with an eBay seller and came to trust him in that time. I then paid him ~$3k for a nice partial Diamond Stars set that his uncle put together in the 30's which he hadn't planned on selling but offered to me unsolicited. It was my biggest raw purchase ever but felt 100% comfortable and have zero regrets. I also have a half dozen or so guys I trust enough to pay limitless amounts to for raw material.

[rhettyeakley]

Certain sets you can't be as picky with.

For example I collect Zeenut cards and there is just no possible way to only collect those if graded (other than maybe the 1911 set which is probably the most common and most graded). People just don't get these cards graded that often and when they do they are almost always lower grade so it ends up not worth it in the end.

The one thing about graded cards that really bugs me is the whole space issue. The holders are so large and cumbersome! I can fit my entire Zeenut collection of nearly 3,000 cards in a relatively small space but you get that many graded cards (especially SGC) and you are probably needing to add a wing onto the house!

[Iwantmorecards77]

I paid a little over $1,500 for a raw T213 from a reputable auctioneer. Big mistake and an expensive lesson learned.

[Exhibitman]

I've had some great raw purchases even from eBay sellers. I've also gotten my share with hairline creases or other damage not visible on the scan and not described. It is a crapshoot but often worthwhile if you assume that the card isn't really the grade listed and buy accordingly. Which is exactly how I used to shop in the pre-Internet days. Just assume from 1-2 grades lower than advertised. I also remember what a relief it was that the items were actually as advertised.

What I cannot understand are the people who buy by mail and pay higher prices for raw cards than for slabbed ones. At least with mainstream sets, the TPG holder makes it far more likely that you will get what you paid for. I can count on one hand the number of times I've had a raw card that came in and was better than described.

Also echo Rhett's view on certain sets. If you want to collect Zeenuts, Exhibits, Kahn's, the various Bond Bread and related issues, and many other regionals and postcards you are going to have to buy raw cards.

[steve B]

If the scans are good ones, I'd be comfortable paying whatever is reasonable for an ungraded example in whatever grade it appears to be.

I'll add a few cautions.
I don't do Ebay by phone or tablet. There's no way to make the image -even a good scan- large enough to see the right details. Desktop with a fairly large monitor and if I need to I use the zoom feature built into the browser. For ebay items with the "click here for a larger picture" the browser zoom won't work on the larger picture, but will on the regular one in the listing (For IE, not sure about others)

Having an idea roughly what grade a card might get if it was graded helps a lot. For T206 I usually don't go much past the price of a VG card for a nice looking raw example.

Having a good eye for what trimming looks like helps a lot. Some weird edges are factory, but won't grade. Some straight edges are too "sharp" and I try to avoid those. I've gotten one or two card that were trimmed that I took a chance on. But kept them since they're actually really nice looking. And I didn't pay much more than I'd have probably had to pay if it was graded "A"

Overall, knowledge can solve a lot of problems. And cheapness can help avoid more. Not the sort of cheapness that makes someone belive they're getting a VG Goudey Ruth for $200, but the cheapness that assumes small issues with an otherwise nice looking card and bids accordingly. Yes, you'll miss out on some because others will risk more. But eventually you'll get a nice card for a reasonable price. And if you're lucky - less likely with HOFers than commons- you'll get a very nice example for a really good price.


Steve B