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#1
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Guys, sorry for intruding on your thread. I am really enjoying reading it. For quite a while I have heard collectors discuss how tough the '67 highs can be. This thread is about as good as anything I have read on the subject. At least one of you referenced hunting for highs in the VG range. Is that about the overall grade of your '67 sets, or do you build the rest of the set a little higher grade compared to the highs? (I didn't know if elements of the rest of the set were tough like the highs.)
I ask all of this because in the next year or so I will be looking for a new set to start. Along with '61 and possibly '66, '67 is on my list of possibilities. Gotta polish off '54 or '65 first though. ![]() |
#2
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Most of my 67's are from my childhood and spent lots of time being handled and bound by rubber bands. I pick up EX when I can find a deal, but these high numbers are really a challenge.
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Always collecting Pirates from the early 1900's thru the early 70's. Completed - 1967 Topps Baseball, 1969 Greiner Tires Pirates, 1964 Topps Giants, 1967 Topps Test Stickers - Pirates Also looking for a 1970's Spalding Advisory Staff photo of Richie Hebner. |
#3
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For high numbers, the ratio of nice vs lower condition cards is larger than for the lower numbered cards simply because they did not have enough time to be handled. Once the season was over they got put away in a box with the earlier, more handled cards.
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#4
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Very interesting information guys. I'm working the '67 set now and am down to 32 cards with Brooksie being the tall pole.
I had put together the '66 and '61 sets quite a while ago and had sworn never to start another set with premium high numbers - I just can't get excited over paying more for Mickey Stanley than many hofers. But I was lured by a starter set and already had the Mantle, Seaver and Carew, so I took the plunge.
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Working Sets: Baseball- T206 SLers - Virginia League (-1) 1952 Topps - low numbers (-1) 1953 Topps (-66) 1954 Bowman (-3) 1964 Topps Giants auto'd (-2) |
#5
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As I had mentioned before, I am working on a nice (Ex or better) 61 set. It is expensive but not difficult, at least relative to some other sets I have worked on. I honestly got lucky (kind of) on the 1967s. I bought two pretty near sets in two weeks (after I had had relatively few 67s) and got down to four cards needed. I am sure i could use a couple of upgrades, but nothing cries out. Picked up the Niekro in a smaller auction, found the Jimenez at a reasonable BIN on eBay, treated myself to the Colavito.
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#6
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If a collector is looking for Ex-Mt or NM ungraded copies of 1967 High numbers, generally how much more should he expect to pay above the prices listed in this very intesting post? 2 times as much? More? Less?
Thanks! |
#7
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Good question. I'd say it's logarithmic based on the EX price. I.E. a common DP I list at $8 above should be able to be found for about $12-15. A Seaver in NM is going to be 3-4x what I priced it at above.
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#8
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Thanks! |
#9
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I'd say it depends and can vary widely based on the card but for the lower valued non-DPs listed above, I would guess most of them could be found for around $20 in NM. Again, as a reminder, my price list is from a buyer's perspective of being a good deal. If I had these for sale, I would probably list them at 1.25x or 1.5x above prices as a starting point.
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#10
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Here's a doozy. Just ended the other day. If you don't want to click on the link a raw NM-MT Brooks Robinson ended at $709.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Topps-S...53.m1438.l2649 It was sold by Greg Morris Cards and I know he gets good prices but dang! Glad I finished this set several years ago. Last edited by stlcardsfan; 09-27-2017 at 09:38 AM. |
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