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I stay away fron qualifiers for the most part. But using the generally accepted two grade deduction I would value a card at much less than just 10% off the non qualified price. In some cases it could be a 80-90% drop with the medium to higher grade vintage cards.
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Successful transactions with peter spaeth, don's cards, vwtdi, wolf441, 111gecko, Clydewally, Jim, SPMIDD, MattyC, jmb, botn, E107collector, begsu1013, and a few others. Last edited by pokerplyr80; 05-13-2016 at 05:59 PM. Reason: Typo |
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#4
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I see great looking centered cards on the pick up thread all of the time in the 1-3 range. If you're only looking at 10-20% more than an OC I'd say that's money well spent.
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Successful transactions with peter spaeth, don's cards, vwtdi, wolf441, 111gecko, Clydewally, Jim, SPMIDD, MattyC, jmb, botn, E107collector, begsu1013, and a few others. |
#5
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I have passed on a lot of sharp OC and MC cards for the reasons you just stated. I usually look for MK cards because I find them to be a good deal. If I can stand the mark then I will usually bid or buy.
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Seeking Knowledge from all the old guys on Net54 before they get senile and forget! ![]() |
#6
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Depends on the card and the set. For some a OC is not an issue for me.
![]() The two-grade thing is not a consistent rule. I've seen cards that merit higher and lower grades at the same levels. ![]() My experience with really sharp, really nice qualified 9s is that people will pay a premium for them versus a straight 7, especially when the qualification is mild.
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#7
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I like when a T206 gets a two grade knock instead of receiving a MK qualifier, especially when the MK is a wet sheet transfer.
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#8
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A few of my first vintage card looked as if they were in spokes or were flipped on concrete.
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Just a collector that likes to talk and read about the Hobby. 🤓👍🏼 |
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