SGC T206s....It needs to be brought up, it's scary, very scary if you are a collector

[1952boyntoncollector]

I still seeing PSA outpacing SGC graded cards for the most part....i do agree with leon that mid grade drums t206 type of cards are pretty similar....its been more than 6 months since the last post...anything change?

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by 1952boyntoncollector

I still seeing PSA outpacing SGC graded cards for the most part....i do agree with leon that mid grade drums t206 type of cards are pretty similar....its been more than 6 months since the last post...anything change?

Still seems to be the same as you can buy a SGC card much cheaper.

[Pilot172000]

So let me get this strait, PSA won't swap over SGC cards? If so, why not just crack open the holder and send in raw. If the card is graded properly, wouldn't PSA grade it as such? I have several SGC card none over $300 that I was planning on sending to PSA. Should I be worried that they would not ease them at all or grade them out the same the SGC once did?

[CMIZ5290]

Originally Posted by Pilot172000

So let me get this strait, PSA won't swap over SGC cards? If so, why not just crack open the holder and send in raw. If the card is graded properly, wouldn't PSA grade it as such? I have several SGC card none over $300 that I was planning on sending to PSA. Should I be worried that they would not ease them at all or grade them out the same the SGC once did?

David- PSA will look at submitted SGC cards in their holders. If you have high graded SGC cards, it takes big balls to crack them out and send in to PSA raw. There is somewhat of a mind game here. Why would PSA give a grade of 8 to an SGC graded card that is an 86? Do they want to give in to their major rival? I'm no expert here, but most people that I have spoken with have told me that SGC graded cards normally get lesser gradeds with PSA, especially the pre-war cards. At the end of the day, you really have to go with the strength of the card and not the holder, just my take...

[ajjohnsonsoxfan]

You could send them to PSA still in the SGC holder and pay a "crossover" rate which is more expensive then a straight grade for a raw card. Many people including myself think that you get a biased opinion doing it this way as PSA seems to have a tendency to give you a grade below SGC's holder. Best way is to crack and submit raw (although over the last 18 months I've received about the same results doing it this way as well). I think overall PSA grades .5 to 1 grade stricter across the board.

[CMIZ5290]

Originally Posted by ajjohnsonsoxfan

You could send them to PSA still in the SGC holder and pay a "crossover" rate which is more expensive then a straight grade for a raw card. Many people including myself think that you get a biased opinion doing it this way as PSA seems to have a tendency to give you a grade below SGC's holder. Best way is to crack and submit raw (although over the last 18 months I've received about the same results doing it this way as well). I think overall PSA grades .5 to 1 grade stricter across the board.

Some truth to this possibly. But again, it takes a lot of nerve to crack out an SGC 88 T206 HOFer....Then you have the risk of it coming back from PSA as being trimmed or altered, not worth the risk IMO

[Pilot172000]

Originally Posted by ajjohnsonsoxfan

You could send them to PSA still in the SGC holder and pay a "crossover" rate which is more expensive then a straight grade for a raw card. Many people including myself think that you get a biased opinion doing it this way as PSA seems to have a tendency to give you a grade below SGC's holder. Best way is to crack and submit raw (although over the last 18 months I've received about the same results doing it this way as well). I think overall PSA grades .5 to 1 grade stricter across the board.

I see what you are saying and I can see how the stakes are significantly raised with the higher grade cards. I don't have anything over a 3 in SGC slabs so I really don't have that much skin in the game. I have noticed while I like PSA cards better, they seem to be less consistent in their grades. I have a PSA 3 that's sharp as razors and a PSA 3.5 that should at best be a grade below my PSA 3 cards. SGC cards seem to be more uniform in their grading for me anyways. I have learned through this forum to buy the card not the grade.

[pokerplyr80]

I'm actually more scared I would damage a high grade card cracking it out than I am it would get a lower grade or come back altered. Even sliding it back into a card saver. The risk of damage in shipping. No risk no reward I suppose, but the crack and resubmit game is one I haven't tried. That is unlikely to change in the future.

[roce4e52]

I started a fully graded 1958 Topps baseball set 8 or 9 years ago and finally finished it at the end of last year (yea for me!). At one time I had about 1/2 of the set PSA and 1/2 SGC graded. Switched to all PSA a few years ago because they were easier to find on Ebay.
Looked at the buy it now pop today for PSA and SGC cards on Ebay and it is around 4500 PSA and less than 500 SGC.
I like the look of cards in SGC holders better and they seem graded no better or worse than PSA but they were just harder to find. This is only my observation and only regarding 58 Topps, but they also sell for 10 to 30% less for cards of same grade. Eight years ago when I started the prices were almost par for equal grades ( the lower trend started about 4 years ago).
B1L d0n@1dsun