Am I the only one???

[Cozumeleno]

I'm a pretty small fish as well, Josh. You just have to pick and choose your spots and as someone else said, it's not personal.

Keep everything in perspective and remember that everything is relative. For as many high-rollers as you are envious of, there are even more collectors who would kill to have the 250 or so T206s you do.

Also, when people buy duplicates, there's always a purpose. Maybe they feel it's a great deal and can flip it - a lot of people fund their collections this way and without doing that, they wouldn't be able to afford the things they want. Maybe they are constantly upgrading. Maybe they just want to hoard that card. We all collect for different reasons. A lot of things come into play.

Stay connected, too. The more people know what you need the more they will look out for you. I had several people reaching out to me here once they found out that knew I was looking for specific cards. It might feel mundane putting out the same requests on the B/S/T, but keep at it.

Best of luck.

Originally Posted by Joshchisox08

Alright time to get something off of my chest. Call me selfish/jealous/envious/etc.

I was wondering if other collectors on here or elsewhere feel the same about a certain something.

Like others I don't seem to have the highest budget to be buying the cards I wish/hope/dream I could get. Then you see others who have multiple duplicates/triplicates/etc of the same cards you're wishing/hoping/dreaming of owning.

Once in awhile you even have a glimmer of hope to get one around or sniffing your price range and BAM!!!! one of those collectors who have 85 of the same card swipes it out from you right under the rug. Keep in mind you don't own a single example.

I'm not calling anyone out just wondering and thinking I can't be the only one who has these thoughts. Jealousy and getting frustrated at examples like above. It's hard to admit to it. On one hand the other person has the money and obviously I don't just expect them to say "hey here you go you don't have one". On the other hand you kind of do expect that like "hey guy! you have more than one of these how about saving some for those who don't".

Mixed thoughts and feelings. Hopefully others can relate to this.

[drcy]

Black light identifies alterations in that added material (such as in restoration) will often fluoresce differently under black light. It's very effective for large items such as posters and paintings, but likely less effective for small items like cards because they are small.

It's used to identify modern reprints and forgeries of paper items, because modern paper often fluoresces very brightly due to chemicals added to Post WWII paper. One key is you can identify a modern fake even when you are unfamiliar with the genre (fine art, Civil war memorabilia, silent movie programs), because you can tell the paper is too modern. You may know nothing about WWI history or memorabilia but can identify a modern reprint of a WWI pamphlet or poster with your $9 black light.

Black lights actually test the atomic makeup of the material-- the frequency and intensity of the light given back is determined at the atomic level. It's just that colors and intensity are simple to interpret by anyone. You don't have to be a nuclear physicist to know that modern paper will often fluoresce brightly or that genuine antique vaseline glass is supposed to fluoresce bright yellow green.

Another big thing to look at is gloss. Added materials and reprints will usually have a different gloss and authentic gloss is one of the hardest things to reproduce. Some forgers will try to mask alterations (such as to make rare variations) by 'varnishing' the entire area, but the varnish will make the entire card different in gloss than the other cards in the issue. And if you're adding materials, such as glossing the entire card, you're also going to be simultaneously changing the black light fluorescence.

This is why it's recommended to remove a raw card from a penny sleeve or top loader before purchase. Because even a penny sleeve can hide and alterations that will be noticed when the card is held at a sharp angle to raking light. Holding the card at an angle you will often be able to see any added coloring or materials. You can often see black pen marks on a 1971 Topps upon close inspection, but they may be hidden when in an album or holder.

Major alterations to large items, such as posters and paintings, are usually easy to identify, often including just by the naked eye. Holding an item up to a bright light (the 'see through' test) will reveal many alterations, including added ink or paint. It's a good way to identify reprints, when comparing it to a known genuine card.

Infrared viewers are also used to identify alterations-- infrared is a different frequency of light than ultraviolet (black light), so you get a different viewpoint. But a black light is usually more than enough for collectors and I think much more useful. I don't think anyone on this board needs to go out an get an infrared viewer.

Most 'forensic light' examinations are giving you looks at an item that the naked eye can't see. IR and ultraviolet tests look at an item in lights invisible to human eyes, and microscopes give you enlarged views you can't see with naked eyes. Gloss, which actually is a sophisticated if simple test, is something the naked eye can see, it's just that collectors have to reminded to look at it. Taking a card out of a holder and looking at it at a sharp angle is done with the naked eyes.

[midmo]

[deltaarnet]

Originally Posted by drcy

Black light identifies alterations in that added material (such as in restoration) will often fluoresce differently under black light. It's very effective for large items such as posters and paintings, but likely less effective for small items like cards because they are small.

It's used to identify modern reprints and forgeries of paper items, because modern paper often fluoresces very brightly due to chemicals added to Post WWII paper. One key is you can identify a modern fake even when you are unfamiliar with the genre (fine art, Civil war memorabilia, silent movie programs), because you can tell the paper is too modern. You may know nothing about WWI history or memorabilia but can identify a modern reprint of a WWI pamphlet or poster with your $9 black light.

Black lights actually test the atomic makeup of the material-- the frequency and intensity of the light given back is determined at the atomic level. It's just that colors and intensity are simple to interpret by anyone. You don't have to be a nuclear physicist to know that modern paper will often fluoresce brightly or that genuine antique vaseline glass is supposed to fluoresce bright yellow green.

Another big thing to look at is gloss. Added materials and reprints will usually have a different gloss and authentic gloss is one of the hardest things to reproduce. Some forgers will try to mask alterations (such as to make rare variations) by 'varnishing' the entire area, but the varnish will make the entire card different in gloss than the other cards in the issue. And if you're adding materials, such as glossing the entire card, you're also going to be simultaneously changing the black light fluorescence.

This is why it's recommended to remove a raw card from a penny sleeve or top loader before purchase. Because even a penny sleeve can hide and alterations that will be noticed when the card is held at a sharp angle to raking light. Holding the card at an angle you will often be able to see any added coloring or materials. You can often see black pen marks on a 1971 Topps upon close inspection, but they may be hidden when in an album or holder.

Major alterations to large items, such as posters and paintings, are usually easy to identify, often including just by the naked eye. Holding an item up to a bright light (the 'see through' test) will reveal many alterations, including added ink or paint. It's a good way to identify reprints, when comparing it to a known genuine card.

Infrared viewers are also used to identify alterations-- infrared is a different frequency of light than ultraviolet (black light), so you get a different viewpoint. But a black light is usually more than enough for collectors and I think much more useful. I don't think anyone on this board needs to go out an get an infrared viewer.

Most 'forensic light' examinations are giving you looks at an item that the naked eye can't see. IR and ultraviolet tests look at an item in lights invisible to human eyes, and microscopes give you enlarged views you can't see with naked eyes. Gloss, which actually is a sophisticated if simple test, is something the naked eye can see, it's just that collectors have to reminded to look at it. Taking a card out of a holder and looking at it at a sharp angle is done with the naked eyes.

Thank you for the information.

[Joshchisox08]

Originally Posted by Cozumeleno

I'm a pretty small fish as well, Josh. You just have to pick and choose your spots and as someone else said, it's not personal.

Keep everything in perspective and remember that everything is relative. For as many high-rollers as you are envious of, there are even more collectors who would kill to have the 250 or so T206s you do.

Best of luck.

Great point and sometimes as much as I've accomplished it's hard to stay humble. But you're right. As I stated above the goal is 500 someday! I think it's obtainable, well hopefully.

Through few interactions you seem like a stand up dude!
Contacts I've got a few! Can't praise Scott and Luke enough! They've given me great insight and just all in all good guys to talk to.