Am I the only one???

[chipperhank44]

As a collector with a limited budget, I have found that the only way to close the gap is with hard work. My strategy is as follows:

Rule #1: Don't look for cards in the same places as high rollers (Heritage, REA, etc.) Look at smaller auction houses and grind out garage/estate sales.

Rule #2: Search more often and with less precision. Grind out ebay searches. Be the first one to see that steal of a BIN. Or be the only one who grinds out a search as generic as "old baseball card" or "vintage baseball". Everyone can search "Ty Cobb", not everyone (especially not your high roller competition) will grind through thousands of listings to find that one special card with no player name in the listing.

Rule #3: Be knowledgeable enough to buy ungraded cards. If you know your stuff you can buy ungraded and cut your competition in half (especially those high rollers who only buy graded). Never leave home without a loupe and a black light.

[Eggoman]

Originally Posted by chipperhank44

As a collector with a limited budget, I have found that the only way to close the gap is with hard work. My strategy is as follows:

Rule #1: Don't look for cards in the same places as high rollers (Heritage, REA, etc.) Look at smaller auction houses and grind out garage/estate sales.

Rule #2: Search more often and with less precision. Grind out ebay searches. Be the first one to see that steal of a BIN. Or be the only one who grinds out a search as generic as "old baseball card" or "vintage baseball". Everyone can search "Ty Cobb", not everyone (especially not your high roller competition) will grind through thousands of listings to find that one special card with no player name in the listing.

Rule #3: Be knowledgeable enough to buy ungraded cards. If you know your stuff you can buy ungraded and cut your competition in half (especially those high rollers who only buy graded). Never leave home without a loupe and a black light.

ABSOLUTELY! I STILL enjoy the hope-against-hope of finding SOMETHING at a Garage/Estate Sale/Flea Market or dingy, dumpy antique shop, whatever...because Hey! YAH NEVER KNOW!

[Laxcat]

+1 to Rule #3

If you are frustrated already, searching 1000's of random listings will make you go mad.

My advice: don't buy a bunch of readily available stuff. If your budget is not depleted from over purchasing you have a higher chance of snagging the card you really want.

[Bored5000]

Originally Posted by Laxcat

My advice: don't buy a bunch of readily available stuff. If your budget is not depleted from over purchasing you have a higher chance of snagging the card you really want.

Agree with this. This is nothing against anyone who collect T206s or 33 Goudeys or 52 Topps. Those are all iconic sets, but I love the obscure or esoteric. If a collector can find an interest in something other than baseball, there are lots of really rare or obscure cards that won't cost thousands or tens of thousands of dollars.

My family is lifelong auto racing fans. I started going to races when I was just a couple months old. There are cards on my want list from the iconic 1972 STP racing set that have been on my want list for a while, even though they may only be worth a few hundred dollars. For me, I can get just as much enjoyment out of a really rare $300-500 card that took me years to find as I can buying a card worth far more money that can be bought any day of the week on eBay or shows up several times a year at auction.

[jsq]

you mention loupe and black light to determine if a card has been tampered with. i vaguely recall reading in another collectible paper area that a black light worked extremely well to detect doctoring of the paper.

could someone elaborate if this is accurate with baseball cards? and specifically how effective it is?

also, does the the black light pick up on these same anamolies inside a slab?

and do the grading companies use a black light on all higher end value cards?

just wanting to understand,

thanks
jsq

Originally Posted by chipperhank44

As a collector with a limited budget, I have found that the only way to close the gap is with hard work. My strategy is as follows:

Rule #1: Don't look for cards in the same places as high rollers (Heritage, REA, etc.) Look at smaller auction houses and grind out garage/estate sales.

Rule #2: Search more often and with less precision. Grind out ebay searches. Be the first one to see that steal of a BIN. Or be the only one who grinds out a search as generic as "old baseball card" or "vintage baseball". Everyone can search "Ty Cobb", not everyone (especially not your high roller competition) will grind through thousands of listings to find that one special card with no player name in the listing.

Rule #3: Be knowledgeable enough to buy ungraded cards. If you know your stuff you can buy ungraded and cut your competition in half (especially those high rollers who only buy graded). Never leave home without a loupe and a black light.

[Rookiemonster]

I was able to spend the most Money I ever spent on a card last year . It was to obtain my Grail 🏆. I did it by literally saving my change and selling things on Ebay. It took years ! At first , But once I applied the method of save and sell I got what wanted ( 1951 Bowman willie Mays psa 2) .

The only regret ? I focused so hard on it I wouldn't buy any other card or pack . I passed up so many great deals I seen along the way .

The brights side ? I feel like I have new life and buy little cheap cards I like or even 50 to 80 dollar cards ( from time to time ) . I don't feel guilty like man I could be saving for _________ . You fill in the blank lol .


So I gave my self some time before I focused on the next card on the list .

[ALR-bishop]

When outbid I tend to think, thank goodness some idiot outbid me on that and saved me all that money

[cammb]

Originally Posted by ALR-bishop

When outbid I tend to think, thank goodness some idiot outbid me on that and saved me all that money

+1

[Laxcat]

Originally Posted by jsq

you mention loupe and black light to determine if a card has been tampered with. i vaguely recall reading in another collectible paper area that a black light worked extremely well to detect doctoring of the paper.

could someone elaborate if this is accurate with baseball cards? and specifically how effective it is?

also, does the the black light pick up on these same anamolies inside a slab?

and do the grading companies use a black light on all higher end value cards?

just wanting to understand,

thanks
jsq

Here is pic of a black light. I think paper made after a certain year has whitening agents added. The newer stuff will "glow" under UV light. The Comiskey is an a16 and the Morrell is a 1972 TCMA reprint.