Hand cut

[AustinMike]

Strictly speaking in reference to Post cereal cards and Bazooka cards, in order to get a number grade, the black borders on the Post cards and the black dashed lines on the Bazooka cards have to be present. If it's cut within the lines, all you can get is an Authentic grade. That is my understanding.

[packs]

I kind of feel like strip cards should only receive number grades when in their original manufactured state (i.e. uncut).

Once a person cuts the cards, even if they're intended to be cut, they are no longer factory issued. They are now hand cut. So I don't see why they should receive a numeric grade.

[abothebear]

but if they are designed to be hand-cut then why not grade the card with the quality of the cut as a factor? As long as they mention that it is a hand-cut issue I don't see the problem.

[packs]

Well what is to keep someone from simply trimming an already cut card to make it look better?

[4815162342]

Originally Posted by packs

Well what is to keep someone from simply trimming an already cut card to make it look better?

Nothing, unless the newly trimmed borders are too narrow to receive a numerical grade.

[packs]

That's why I don't think there should be any numerical grades for cards cut by a collector. It's a slippery slope. The cards came attached. Their purpose is irrelevant. Once you cut them apart you've altered them from the factory distribution.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't TPG's only assign authentic grades to cards cut from previously uncut sheets?

[bxb]

From PSA website:

The Grading of Hand-Cut Cards

PSA will grade virtually any card that has been hand-cut off of a panel, box, etc. (Post Cereal, Hostess, Bazooka, Strip cards, etc.) keeping the following information in mind. This service does not include traditional sheet-cut cards. PSA will not grade cards cut from sheets that can be obtained in a normal fashion. For example, PSA will not grade a 1979 O-Pee-Chee Wayne Gretzky card cut from a sheet because that card was issued in non-sheet form. On the other hand, PSA will grade a 1959 Bazooka or 1961 Post Cereal Mickey Mantle because those cards could only be obtained in one fashion - removed by hand from a box or panel.

In order for PSA to actually assign a grade to any of the cards that possess visible/defined borders on all four sides, evidence of that border must be present or the card must exhibit virtually-full borders based on the design of the specific issue. If the cut exceeds the visible border for the card in question, PSA will encapsulate the card as "Authentic" only. If the card is severely undersized and suffers in overall eye appeal, the graders may deem the card not suitable for authentication or reject the card as minimum-sized altogether.

Keep in mind that, for cards that do not possess visible/defined borders, the cards must still fall within a certain size requirement for that particular issue in order to qualify for an actual grade. In other words, the borders must be virtually full in order for a grade to be rendered. Otherwise, as stated above, a label of "Authentic" will be assigned or, in some cases, the cards may fall short of the size requirement altogether. This is not an exact science. PSA will do its best to provide consistent guidelines for these types of cards.

In addition, PSA will allow cards that have had a coupon or tab removed from the original card to be submitted under this service. For example, if a 1952 Red Man Tobacco card is cut at or outside of the established tab line, the card would be eligible to receive a numerical grade. On the other hand, if the 1952 Red Man Tobacco card is cut inside of the line (the line where the tab meets the interior of the card), then the PSA graders will be precluded from entering a numerical grade. Cards that are cut within the limits established for a particular issue will be encapsulated and designated as "authentic" by PSA. All of the cards eligible for this service will be designated as "Hand-Cut" on the PSA label to distinguish them from the intact, "with tab" or "with coupon" examples.

PSA suggests that, in order to achieve the highest grades, the cuts of the cards should be relatively close to the visible borders without exceeding the limit. Cards that exhibit a clean, accurate and properly shaped cut have the best chance at achieving the highest grades. Eye appeal is very important. When it comes to excess paper or cardboard around the edges of the visible borders, the graders will place significant importance on overall eye appeal. Keep in mind that all cards of this type will be designated as "Hand-Cut" on the PSA label for accuracy. In addition, if the customer chooses, PSA will grade and encapsulate entire panels if those panels will fit in any of our current PSA holders. With the exception of the aforementioned items, normal grading criteria will apply.

[brian1961]

...

[deltaarnet]

Originally Posted by AustinMike

Strictly speaking in reference to Post cereal cards and Bazooka cards, in order to get a number grade, the black borders on the Post cards and the black dashed lines on the Bazooka cards have to be present. If it's cut within the lines, all you can get is an Authentic grade. That is my understanding.

You are right. Per PSA all 4 sides must show lines or you get a A. 1 out of 5 of my Jello cards received a grade the others all authentic.

[Bigb13]

That's great if they have lines a lot or most scraps are Auth but really when you look at some of them they deserve number grades.

Both PSA and SGC have given number grades to quite a few 1965 Topps Iron-On Transfers that were cut from rolls/sheets over the last few months.

These insert "cards" were extremely hard to find in high grade until several months ago when uncut stock turned up; since those uncut sheets were discovered, the high grade population for the star player cards from those sheets (Killebrew and Clemente, in particular) has exploded.

(I'm in the camp, however, that doesn't care whether cards are factory-cut or hand-cut, or designated any particular way on slab labels. As long as they measure correctly and are 100% original, I'm happy).

[Leon]

Originally Posted by Karl Mattson

..............

(I'm in the camp, however, that doesn't care whether cards are factory-cut or hand-cut, or designated any particular way on slab labels. As long as they measure correctly and are 100% original, I'm happy).

I agree with this but like my hand cut cards to be full sized. I am not in the camp of putting a lot of credence in high grade, cut strip cards. I would guess many were cut very recently which is a turn off to "high grade" for me. But to each their own.....If folks want SGC 96 W515s more power to them. Sharp corners can be made at any time, just remember that.

[Laxcat]

Originally Posted by Leon

Sharp corners can be made at any time, just remember that.

"Oh that card seems oversized. I'll fix that." Well I'll be.... Now it's Gem Mint

Ugghh

[Leon]

Originally Posted by Laxcat

"Oh that card seems oversized. I'll fix that." Well I'll be.... Now it's Gem Mint

Ugghh

And I should elaborate on my comment. I like strip cards a lot. I am not positive, but don't believe it is possible to absolutely tell "when" a strip card was cut.

Let me repeat, I really enjoy strip cards AND if folks want to collect high grade ones that is great...it means they definitely look nice, but, they should understand what they are paying for....

Originally Posted by Leon

Sharp corners can be made at any time, just remember that.

I'm not sure what you mean by this - are you saying sharp corners can be made at any time while still maintaining correct card size and while also being undetectable to the major grading companies?

If an oversized card is trimmed to its correct/intended size, I don't care (it was done all the time in the 1970s and 1980s, and back then we actually thought of it as a good thing); if a card is correctly and professionally trimmed from a sheet or strip years after its date of issue, I don't care.

If a card is "stretched" and then trimmed, I absolutely don't approve of that - I'd consider that altering/doctoring, because material is being subtracted from the original card. But if it's undetectable, I don't know how you'd combat it. Avoiding cards with sharp corners may reduce your risk, but I don't think there's any shortage of manipulated cards in low grade collections, either.