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#1
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I don't get caught up in the numeric grade if the card looks nice. So, like many others here, I buy the card and not the holder. My guess is, if you wait for the right card ( lesser graded than the rest of your set ), by appearances, the card will fit right in with your set. Just buy a nice ungraded example and save some $$$. Centering plays a roe for me, but not as much as the corners. I love sharp corners if I can get them.
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My new found obsession the t206! |
#2
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Lou, most of what I build probably won't be graded. I also couldn't care less about the number on the holder...just using the #s as a point of reference. Thanks for your input.
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#3
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I agree with the above statement. I would figure out what's important to you when you look at a set, ie corners, creases, edges, centering etc. If all are important then you will have a high grade set but if you can give give on one or more and keep the set consistent then you won't be bothered looking through if later.
Surface wear and registration are my big issues. Centering, border and corner wear don't bother me so much. Even minor surface creases aren't a big deal as long as not every card is affected. My take in your question is if you were building say a 1954 Topps set you gave to deal with two Williams as well as the three big rookies plus other HOFers. If it were me and I could handle the big ones in VG or vgex condition then I would get the entire set in that grade to save some money and be consistent. If you wanted the set in ex shape then I would save for the big boys in that grade and not go down to save the money. Every time you look at your set you will wish the key cards match the rest of hand set and then you will probably regret it or wan to upgrade and get them anyway. Just my rambling opinion. Drew
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Drew |
#4
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I just try to build a set that if someone who knew nothing about cards looked at it, nothing would stand out. As in holy crap what happened to that card?
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#6
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