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#1
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The only way to tell the difference between a real Chicle and the reprint set (with the naked eye anyway) is that real Chicles have blue lettering on the back. The reprint set has green lettering on the back. Real Chicles never have green lettering.
Of course there might be lots of other fakes / reprints out there so just because a Chicle has blue lettering doesn't mean it's legit! jeff Last edited by jefferyepayne; 11-21-2014 at 03:34 PM. |
#2
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Thanks Jeff. I posted on the PSA board
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#3
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jeff |
#4
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Seller also had a 1957 Topps Bill Russell card that ended on November 12. He received positive feedback from "the buyer" but when you click on that transaction, eBay shows that the item had been listted at $600 and had been relisted. The photos that accompanied the initial listing showed close-ups of the four corners and the full back of the card. No front photos. The card was, in fact, relisted, for $675 with only front and back photos and is currently active. So many red flags here, not to mentiononly 11 feedbacks, the second of which declares him the best eBay seller ever.
eBay has become a snakepit for buying vintage cards. Between sellers like this selling reprints as originals and others manipulating final bid prices, I'm glad I only have four cards to go to complete my 1935 Chicle football set. Unfortunately, this is our problem to deal with as eBay doesn't seem to care to do anything. I'm a teacher, and once we send a kid to administrators "too many times" we're told the kid is "your problem." Is that analogy on the mark? Last edited by powderfinger; 11-22-2014 at 08:02 AM. |
#5
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Thumbs up guys. This stuffs informs me and other collectors, as i didnt know myself.
__________________
1916-20 UNC Big Heads Need: Ping Bodie |
#6
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What's needed is a new, fresh auction site with a more caring owner. The problem is that building such a thing and attract enough bidders to convince dealers / consigners to put their items on it is a very daunting and expensive task. I know there are plenty of small, new auction houses that have popped up and that is a great thing but I'm talking about something more like ebay here in which individual sellers can list their wares. jeff Last edited by jefferyepayne; 11-22-2014 at 09:52 AM. |
#7
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1. a list of all bidders on the item (and their bids) 2. what percentage of bids a buyer puts toward a particular seller's auctions More and more I've had to look beyond the price to determine whether I believe the price is legitimate or has been "doctored". More and more things I see make me wonder whether the price was manipulated. Here is one scenario I've seen again and again. 1) Buyer lists very high BIN. 2) Friendly shiller "buys" item and gives a glowing review 3) Buyer waits a bit and relists item as BIN/Best Offer 4) Unsuspecting new buyer looks at VCP and makes a Best Offer lower than first BIN but much higher than what the market value is of the item. If asked, seller says buyer reneged. 5) Buyer accepts Best Offer and makes additional $$$. 6) Now there are two inflated purchases in VCP for this item. jeff Last edited by jefferyepayne; 11-22-2014 at 03:30 PM. |
#8
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Last edited by TanksAndSpartans; 11-22-2014 at 12:27 PM. |
#9
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I don't like this one, but I can't put into words why - the back actually looks ok - what am I missing?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-Nationa...item463d6c713c P.S. Wan't looking for these - but it seems like my eBay searches are missing cards, so I ran a few manual searches and came across it. Last edited by TanksAndSpartans; 07-02-2015 at 07:36 PM. |
#10
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It appears to be the same card from the original post on page one. ?.. or i've forgotten how to internet.. :-P
Last edited by sockwell123; 07-02-2015 at 10:07 PM. |
#11
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I personally would stay away from the current card on ebay for a number of reasons: 1. I don't trust high dollar cards that aren't graded. There is such a premium for graded stars that I'm always skeptical when one isn't. Usually this means it was submitted and rejected or the seller knows its not legit. 2. The colors look off to me. I compared it with my Nags and the yellow on the front looks too dark on this card and so does the blue ink on the back. Obviously there are differences in print runs that can account for slight color differences on cards but this looks like to much to me. 3. I avoid cards with blurry scans and ones that don't show all the edges (like on the back of this one). Usually they are hiding something. 4. Chicle cards are notorious for slight registration problems due to printing the image color by color. I don't see any on this card at all which is a bit troubling too. If it is fake, someone put some time into this one as its passable. What do others think? jeff Last edited by jefferyepayne; 07-03-2015 at 06:33 AM. |
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