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#1
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Again, I'll ask the question--what evidence do you have that your Mexican scammer is having his own holders fabricated? Doesn't it stand to reason that if he has this much money to spend, he probably would go into a legitimate business rather than trying to peddle fake sports cards to a network of hapless Craigslist sellers? PSA puts together some very good guidelines that can virtually eliminate these types of scams. From their website: One way the PSA holder may show tampering is what is commonly referred to as "frosting" along the edges where the clear plastic starts to exhibit a cloudy appearance. In some cases, you can actually see minor fractures or cracks in the plastic as a result of the violation. This occurs when the sonic weld is broken and can be seen in various degrees. What may seem like a very basic approach is the importance of knowing the seller. It is not uncommon for collectibles to be valued at five, six or even seven-figure levels in some cases. If you were buying a watch for $5,000, would you purchase it from a company or someone you didn't recognize or know? If not, the first prudent step would be asking for good references. The same approach should be used in the collectibles market. It is imperative that you find a reputable dealer or auction house to buy from. Remember, it is your money. If you are directly solicited by a person or company with whom you have no prior dealings or relationship, you should approach the offer with caution, particularly if such an offer is coupled with a deal that seems too good to be true. These are warning signs. Ironically, the lure of a quick profit often overrides one's common sense. Don't let this happen to you. Last edited by MW1; 05-26-2014 at 04:20 PM. |
#2
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__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#3
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I've never cracked a PSA holder, so don't know if the frosting on a compromised holder is so much different than the frosting I've seen on mine. Would love to see all these holders side by side and in hand at some point (real, real with frosting, poorly cracked lots of frosting, well cracked minimal frosting, fake, etc). |
#4
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Here's my bottom line: If I posted the original pictures with an equal number of legitimate scans, I highly doubt anyone would be able to tell which cards were real/fake strictly based on the appearance of the slabs. I see frosting on legitimate slabs all the time. Look at the scans below, are any of these cards compromised? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#5
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You bring up an important point here that should not be understated. Whenever you are spending money on graded sports cards--especially if that sum is an excess of $1000--it pays to know who the seller is. If you don't know, ask for some references or explore that seller's online sales history. There is a huge difference between purchasing graded cards from a knowledgeable dealer who has been in business for 25 or more years and a upstart seller on eBay whose source for inventory is craigslist. Know your source. And know that if you try to buy 1986 Fleer Michael Jordans or 1952 Topps Mickey Mantles for a mere fraction of their value, that there's a very good chance they're not legitimate, the holder and flip notwithstanding. |
#6
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#7
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those are some scary modern fakes!
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#8
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Who says they are fakes? They could very well be legitimate cards that are either 8s or trimmed.
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#10
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Thanks Ben. Evan was being a wiseguy in his post. I submitted the Werle myself. It's legitimate.
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