Guidance Needed from the Set Builders

[savedfrommyspokes]

Kevin, for me, I first built these Topps sets (53-present) by starting with (multiple) larger lots of commons/semis and then subsequently buying the stars to finish the set out. In the case of 56's, after completing the set initially, I came back and bought several complete sets in order to further upgrade my set. I then sold off the lower grade cards as singles ( I had the time to do so) on ebay to more than cover the costs of my upgrades.

In most cases with sets I have built (69 and back) I have followed the same MO as above and subsequently wind up with a minimal amount invested in a nice mid grade set (EX to EX-MT) after selling off all of my dupes as singles.

Currently I am working the 50-55 Bowman sets and the 61-63 Post sets with the same MO...while I still have a few stars remaining that I need (Mantle/Mays), these sets 9 sets range from 75% to 99% complete in solid mid-grade shape. By buying multiple lots for each of these sets and selling off my doubles(profitably), I have approximately $1500-$2000 invested in these 9 sets.

To answer your question, I recommend buying multiple lots, upgrading, selling off the dupes as singles (to maximize profit) and adding stars as time and money allow.

[Brianruns10]

I never buy whole sets. Always singly. For me it's the thrill of the hunt, cherrypicking only the finest examples (within my price/grade range) with an emphasis on centering. I just like to have that control. Because buying a whole set, it is just harder to ensuring uniform quality.

[ALR-bishop]

On my Topps sets 1948 and 1951 to 1971 I pieced them. From 72 to, so far, 2014 I buy sets, with minimum upgrading. But for all sets I add any variations listed in SCD, Beckett or The Registry. Also a pack :-)....and any insert or test set for the related year ( up to 94). It is some sort of illness :-(

[brob28]

Kevin, congrats on the '61 set you showed in the pick-up thread, looks real nice. I build all my sets by buying lots, mostly for commons and buy the star cards individually. In a lot of sets I've seen for sale there seems to be a drop off in condition and/or centering in the more expensive cards. I don't have a lot of time to re-sell in Ebay or elsewhere so I try to buy what I want from the start. Long-winded way to get to my answer, but if you are interested in a specific grade on these cards, I would buy the card in the holder. With the vagaries of grading you could by several cards hoping for that 6 and get a 4. If you paid anything more than a 4 price for it, your losing money. IMO it would be easier and safer to just buy them slabbed if that's what you want.

[K-Nole]

I have done both ways, bought complete set, and then buy "lot".

When I buy the set as a whole, it is not "fun". I buy the set, and there it sets.

So now, all i ever do is build sets with my son, by buying winning "lots" off ebay, then what i still need, I go to the local card shop and see what I can get from him, because I believe it is our duty to keep our little card shop owners, in business.
Then what i still need, i buy thru "sportlots.com".
Then what i still need, which by this time is only 5-6 at the most, i buy off ebay.

That way is a lot more fun as i am doing it with my 11 year old son, and we get to physically analyze almost every card. When I bought already built complete sets, it was, "well, here it is", "Now what?"

[kailes2872]

Thanks all for the replies.

K-Nole, I appreciate the head's up on sportslots.com - as I had not heard of them before.

I think that I am going to go this route for the 53-56 quests that will take a couple of years to complete. I went through last night and built spreadsheets for each year and am in the middle of the process of pricing out the stars as to what I should expect to pay. I classified cards as super stars, stars, minor stars, commons, high numbers, team cards, checklists, etc. Now it will be a matter of filling in the worksheets over time with the date, price paid, vendor, etc.

Does anyone have any tips &/or tricks on how to do the search function for lots to get a cleaner return? I attempted to do 1956 Lot EX-NM and got a wide assortment of things that were neither 1956 nor EX-NM. I could just be that I have to wade through some stuff to find it.

Much to your chagrin, I will keep you posted over time on my progress.

Take Care,
Kevin

[K-Nole]

if you are a "set guy", their is no better site then sportlots.com

I have done baseball, from 1982 to 1973 and football from 1981 to 1968 & 1959, using that site.

Completely free to get set up.

It is so easy. Just go thru pick your cards, and if you have cards from 1 seller to 20 sellers, it doesnt matter, they handle the payment dispersal.

Just for your knowledge, I have a few sellers that I have bought from, that are heads and tails over the top, better then others. I have bought hundreds of cards from these guys and have NEVER been disappointed with the card/s

SetMaker
Frankves
JWestport
Jet
DCottons
rtg74rtg

let me know if you need any help. Lord knows I spend most of my days on there