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  #1  
Old 12-25-2013, 08:31 AM
aelefson aelefson is offline
Alan Elefson
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I think Mike was referring to another poster's use of then, as opposed to than. Back on topic, I prefer low graded cards (trimmed, tears, paper loss, holes, whatever) as I can collect more of what I want that way.

As to value, it always depends on rarity, but also the type of card itself, and whether or not a card is graded by a grading company. For example, Old Judges with back writing are technically lower grade, but most OJ collectors care very little about the state of the back (other than if it is skinned or re-backed). Much more important is the clarity of the image on the front of the card. To the grading companies, a weak front image and a clean back earns a higher grade than a strong front and writing on the back.

Alan

Last edited by aelefson; 12-25-2013 at 08:42 AM. Reason: forgot to speak to value
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  #2  
Old 12-25-2013, 08:40 AM
bbcard1 bbcard1 is offline
T0dd M@rcum
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For my T206 set, I decided to go with a nice set that I hope to eventually upgrade to an average of about a 2.5. I am probably happy with the scarce variations in a decent 1. I am always in the process of upgrading. Though I have finished up my 520 set, I probably only have maybe five cards that would go a 5 or better (Shag, Ryan, Young throwing, and a couple of commons), but wear on a T206 set looks appropriate in my opinion. I am working on a 1961 set and am no settling for anything less than ex. For some reason, that set only looks nice to me in a nice grade.
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  #3  
Old 12-25-2013, 09:38 AM
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Exhibitman Exhibitman is offline
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I collect almost exclusively in low grade.

There isn't really a hard and fast rule you can make for how they price out. If you are referring to a mainstream card that can be readily located in a variety of conditions then the cards are virtually worthless except for the superstars, who can be had for less than 10% of the price of a near mint version if you are willing to wait a bit. I try to pay even less, just to make it interesting. Like a beater T206 red bg Cobb. I waited for quite a while until I found one for around $100 less than 'market' and bought it. 'Junk' boxes at the National can yield even better deals. Also depends on how FUBARed you are willing to get with a card.

There is no rule on pricing true rarities. It is strictly what the buyer will pay. I pick a price I would like to get for a card like that and tell prospective buyers who want to dicker about it if you can find the card somewhere else, buy it.
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Last edited by Exhibitman; 12-25-2013 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:42 AM
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E93 E93 is offline
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Of course condition affects value. Look in any price guide and see how values change depending on condition. That said, the effect of condition on value goes down in relative proportion to the scarcity and general desirability of the card. In other words, if it is hard to find in any condition, then condition matters less to most buyers.
JimB

Last edited by E93; 12-25-2013 at 09:43 AM.
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  #5  
Old 12-25-2013, 10:03 AM
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pete ullman
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Agreed Jim...and well stated. To say condition has no bearing on value is ludicrous!
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  #6  
Old 12-25-2013, 11:44 AM
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drcy drcy is offline
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By price, I meant 'book price' relative to grade.

If the theoretical or actual book price for a Near Mint is $1000 and $100 for poor, a poor card may sell for $160 ( or quite a bit above book price) in actual auction. The presence of a low grade example of a popular card may get lots of bids from people who can't normally afford it.

I didn't imply that the poor grade card would for Near Mint price. That wouldn't happen.

Duly note that I collected modern cards back when when you referred to Beckett magazine as a price guide. Even if the the prices listed were retail and you'd never get or pay that, you still referenced it as a marker. So 'book price' is in my vocabulary. Back then a card may sell for "50% of Becket" or $70% of Beckett." Something selling for above Becket was an unusual situation, perhaps caused by the young prospect's star was rising as he hit more home runs.

I know some people here have objected when a seller lists Near Mint book price at the sale of a Vg example, but that was just standard procedure back then. The Near Mint book price was just a marker, the number listed in Beckett or SCD, and the buyer and seller did the calculations from that. The price was retail, plus a Vg card would normally be worth, say, 30% of Near Mint. Listing the Near Mint book price wasn't a form of deception, and wasn't implying that that was what the Vg card for sale was worth.

Last edited by drcy; 12-25-2013 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 12-25-2013, 11:56 AM
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drcy drcy is offline
David Ru.dd Cycl.eback
 
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I put a big error in my example prices above. Pre reread before you says 'What?!?'

My personal rule is if I catch an error before anyone else points it out, it doesn't count as an error.

Last edited by drcy; 12-25-2013 at 12:00 PM.
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