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#1
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Also if you do buy PSA to cross to SGC bear in mind that they DO NOT follow the same grading criteria. I took a group to the National this year to cross over to SGC. While many did cross, ANY cards with a sign of paperloss received no higher than a 20. Some of these were in PSA 4 holders.
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Adam Goldenberg |
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#2
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I too prefer SGC for pre-war cards; good choice. I've only done a few crossovers and had mixed results. I've had only one card go up a half point grade coming from PSA to SGC. Most have received the same grade. I've had only one that didn't meet the requested minimum grade.
If you have a good enough eye, you can try buying raw, hoping to have the card meet the particular grade. I have to imagine you'd strike out more than often unless you've got a keen eye. Perhaps Erick can chime in about this since he's been going this route to the best of my knowledge. It became a little more difficult to do this when SGC came out with their half-point grades. I'd recommend buying the card already in the grade you want if you can as it'll probably save you time and headache in the long run. Good luck!
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T206 518/518 |
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#3
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Some great input, guys. Thank you both!
Phil, that's awesome you're getting so close to your goal. I don't think I'll come close to completing it in ten years, as there are many other sets, pre-war, vintage and modern alike, that I want to collect cards from, too. I love baseball's history, but I also love watching the game now, and I follow players from when they are first drafted. It's a treat to watch minor league games, and see guys develop. I'm going to use the prospecting skills I've developed to help create a little extra income for buying my cards for my pre-war and vintage collections. Adam, do you feel on the whole that SGC is a little tougher grader? I can put up with edge and corner wear, some minor staining, and centering that is slightly off. But paper loss, or holes in the card, I draw the line there. Those two things just lower the card's overall eye appeal too much.
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Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
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#4
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Some sage advice, Jason. Thank you!
Are you aware of a good grading guide that's been written specifically for T206 cards?
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Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
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#5
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Aloha Bill, Besides paper loss and holes, I think it's a good idea to try and avoid trimmed/altered cards in any way, (if possible we all have seen bad cards get past tpg's). I always felt a trimmed card was much like a card with paper loss in that it wasn't a "whole" card. I like the idea that eye appeal is most important. Dave
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#6
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only way to go with T206 Bill
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#7
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I've been slowly sending in a few at a time on specials. Many of them ones I bought in the late 70's -early 80's, plus a few Ebay pickups.
For values, the first batch I sent in by handing them to them at the Shriners show. I asked about value and after a brief look maybe 15 seconds total, they said "mid grade T206s, 100 each." The ones I've done since then I've just gone with a best guess based on Ebay prices, and put down a high value that fit the service level or whatever special I was using. It's mostly for the registered mail coverage on the return. I've been realistic, I wouldn't try to slide the CB Cobb through on a $250 max value special even if it is a borderline A/10. I figure they'd catch it and call me about paying more. There have been a couple that were borderline - If it graded one way it would be over, if it went another it would be over. No problems with that so far. I find the grades a bit variable, some higher than expected, some much lower. I'm not finicky about having them all in the same range, so it's mostly ok. I've gotten anywhere from 35-84, and about 50% make sense. Some of the rest are puzzling. But you can't go wrong with eye appeal. There are some really nice looking lower grades out there. I can't see paying much premium if any, but I won't pass up a really nice looking card for the right price. I do have a few PSA graded ones I'll eventually cross over. Maybe this month since there's a special. I just have to decide if I'll crack them out or not. Probably will, since it's cheaper right now. Steve B |
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#8
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Hey Bill,
Like you, I am 42 as well and started on the Monster the first of the year (am 43/524). I also am collecting in SGC 30-50. There is a lot of truth to what others have said with respect to patience. It's tough not to buy everything you see but I made it a point to find the nicest centered cards as possible. Every day I seem to get even more picky.......LOL. I do have a mixture of raw, SGC and PSA cards though most are SGC. I will end up with them all in SGC holders. I agree, the hunt is half the fun. Maybe we will be able to help each other along the way. Mark |
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