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#1
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I just told you in the previous post. If you choose not to believe that it does the card (or other items such as National Copper Plate premiums or even albumen photographs) no harm, then consult someone whose opinion you trust more - telling us that you believe the process "amateurish" and that someone other than yourself should consult a professional to determine the truth, is ludicrous.
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$co++ Forre$+ |
#2
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Here is an interesting video I found on utube. It's interesting to watch and hear these professionals talk about molecular bonding and the scientific principles involved. Way beyond my complete understanding.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKEfOXNYzr8 ![]() |
#3
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I have recently been experimenting with a group of low grade T206s that had ink stains on the back. I thought I would try a certain very common solvent and see what happened with a $15 card. It worked. Tried three or four more. Black fountain pin ink disappears in minutes. Just dissolves. The card comes out much cleaner, but there might be a little fading. Hard to tell. I'm not selling these cards. Not out to defraud anyone, but I'll bet I'm not the first to figure this out. Very mild common chemical. I did a card with what looked like old typewriter writing. Under magnification you can see the typewriter marks, but the ink vanished. As I say I'm not going to screw anyone, but I'll bet there are others doing it.
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#4
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You can always contact Dick Towle for a professional opinion about cleaning cards. Has a secret solvent he made that removes stuff and won't fail a TPG test. He doesn't restore cards. He removes the extra stuff left by time just like soaking.
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Andrew Member since 2009 |
#5
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This is my second experiment with the bowl of water method. I bought it for $7.57 to experiment with. Can't wait to try it on a Plank.
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Rick McQuillan T213-2 139 down 46 to go. |
#6
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I gave this card a light surface cleaning. It was almost twice as dark as it is now. Just a light brushing with a q-tip and water, doing a small area at a time then drying. I didn't go farther since the surface coating is a bit crazed (A network of tiny cracks from the coating shrinking) and the dirt is into the cracks in many places. It might have cleaned better by soaking, but I was chicken.
It's sc350-460 f25 by the way. A couple notes that apply specifically to T206s and somewhat generally to many other cards. The surface of the color side is coated stock and won't absorb water well enough to be damaged. The coating is also water resistant and holds to the paper and ink well. Other series may have different paper or a gloss coat that can be damaged by water. The inks used in lithography are all oil based and will not be affected by water. The colorants might be, but it's nearly impossible to know what exact colorants were used. Assuming the typical ones for the era most of them are totally unaffected by water. Inks used for other processes may not be oil based. That's part of why knowing the process matters. (Some old british stamps are printed with what are called fugitive inks that dissolve in water. One series is "doubly fugitive" meaning it dissolves in both water and solvents.) A gloss coat may be oil based, or alcohol based like shellac. Most oil based glosses aren't bothered by water at all, Shellac is and will absorb water and get cloudy- Like rings left on old furniture, which is why we use coasters. The papers all begin as a slurry of stuff in water. The machine then scoops it up on a screen, spreads it evenly and dries it. Some papers will absorb a lot of water and expand, like 70's Topps many of those have a high wood pulp content. The paper used for T206s probably has a high rag content, and is far less absorbent. (And may actually be nearly acid free. I just don't have a sample I'm willing to test since I'd have to destroy a portion of it.) And that's an "amateur" take on the technical aspects of cleaning/soaking. Steve B |
#7
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![]() Car Wash = Professional Automobile Restoration Facility ?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Em8mbWbvvM
__________________
RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
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