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#1
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![]() Quote:
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__________________
. Looking for: T205 Cubs in AB, Cycle, Sov, HLC. & E91A Cubs, T206 Cubs master set, T3 Cubs |
#2
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Did you trim the left and lower border? Comes to a point now in the pic
Thanks for sharing pictures of the surgical procedure doc ![]()
__________________
Ruben |
#3
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From the looks of the rest of the card...those 2 dots appear to be stains of some sort?!?! Seeing as the card is trimmed and has paper loss...a long soak can only improve the appearance.
Nice documentation...and nice work! |
#4
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Clayton: no transfer is noticed on the removed paper.
I also can't claim to be a doc but maybe I missed my true calling. No trimming by myself was done. This card was how I purchased it. It appears to but cut right off of the wall with an exacto knife of some type. (It appears my scanner auto cropped it too closely making the card appear with sharp edges at lower bottom left edge). Those two dots (colon) puzzle me. They appear to be uniform and not splatters; they also remained as all of the other junk on the card cleaned up. Any ideas? Craig Last edited by Craig M; 04-03-2013 at 08:38 AM. |
#5
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Do you have a large enough scan that you can zoom in to see if it was printed?
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#6
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Good job on the operation Craig.
The colour and uniformity of the dots does give it a printed look. It appears that they faded a bit after the operation, my guess is they are a really dark stain that just happens to be in the right place ![]() Would like to see a really high resolution scan or loop it.
__________________
T206 gallery |
#7
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When I get home this evening I will adjust my scanner to zoom in on those two dots. They appear to be just a shade darker than the word CUBS which leads me to believe Peter.
There was paper loss on the front but I will also have to look closer to see if there was ink loss. Is it best to use distilled water instead of tap water? Possibly the minerals in tap water is too harsh for a 100+ year card. Craig |
#8
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Chris,
When you say high resolution, what dpi should I use when I re-scan it? Craig |
#9
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I scan at 2400, but that is because I can and I enjoy looking at the dot pattern when possible. 600 should be good enough to see what is needed, but the larger the more info can be gathered.
Last edited by bn2cardz; 04-03-2013 at 10:26 AM. |
#10
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![]() Quote:
Steve B |
#11
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![]() Quote:
__________________
Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#12
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100 yr-old beaters that require soaking to get them to even acceptable status? tap water. Been doing it for years and the cards look fine when finished.
There are definitely times when distilled water has its place, but there is no need to go out and buy it for soaking poor grade cards.
__________________
$co++ Forre$+ |
#13
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![]() Quote:
Sincerely, Clayton |
#14
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The dots are not the same color. The color blocks at the bottom of the picture I have attached are the average color of the pixels inside each space. The numbers inside those boxes are the RGB colors. I also cropped out a circle and overlaid it on the left side of the "S".
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#15
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It must be my old screen, because they still look the same color to me ![]() ![]() Sincerely, Clayton |
#16
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I have two screens at work. The screen that I use for the web (also is the screen that holds my tools for my art programs) is older and thus doesn't hold its color correction very long doesn't show the difference in color very well. It wasn't until I pulled the card into photoshop on my other screen was it so blatant that it was a different color. That is why I also put the RGB values on there so that you could see the data without the fooling of the eyes.
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