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#1
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The last edition of SCD lists variations for all 3 of the 52 double prints. In each case the stitches on the back baseball always run right or left on the Mantle, Robinson and Thompson. But as Ted points out, the Mantle, and the Robinson and Thompson also have front differences. On the Mantle, for me, the easiest ones to spot are the top of the box star line is wavy or straight, the e in the auto is truncated or not, the black border at the top has tails, or not, and the pixel shows on the left or not
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#2
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__________________
Building these sets: T206, 1953 Bowman Color, 1975 Topps. Great transactions with: piedmont150, Cardboard Junkie, z28jd, t206blogcom, tinkertoeverstochance, trobba, Texxxx, marcdelpercio, t206hound, zachs, tolstoi, IronHorse 2130, AndyG09, BBT206, jtschantz, lug-nut, leaflover, Abravefan11, mpemulis, btcarfagno, BlueSky, and Frankbmd. |
#3
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^^^ Thats what i use...also not where the Dimaggio is located underneath the "s" or to the right of it.
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1916-20 UNC Big Heads Need: Ping Bodie |
#4
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I'd also add, note the position of the Y in Mickey, in relation to the inner border of the box. It practically touches.
On EVERY bogus Mantle card I see in a cracked holder on ebay, the one thing they all have in common is the Y is too high, with a several mm wide gap between the base of the loop and the box. |
#5
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I had the impression Ted was focused on the differences between the two different real Mantles rather than how to distinguish real from fakes
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#6
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So? I figured while we're discussing the distinguishing characteristics between type As and Bs, it might be worth mentioning some diagnostics for authenticity, if it saves some poor sucker from buying a fake in a cracked holder on ebay...
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#7
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...then have at it
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