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#1
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Great cards!
Scott I considered doing that but I have front and backs. Would love to do it that way though. |
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#2
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Quote:
I've only done backs on two different sets. The first time, I thought I had the alignment perfect, and it turned out I was completely wrong. The second time, I nailed it. Some remember that I created a sheet of 'backs' that I included with each OJ reprint set. I also created a single prototype set with the backs actually on the cards. It wasn't easy, but it worked. I abandoned that plan because the backs with stats just looked too modern. I still have the prototype set - I'll create a couple of scans and post at some point. You've gotten me fired up about this again. Thinking I might re-start the card set project, but give it a twist (not OJ's this time around).
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$co++ Forre$+ |
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#3
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Thanks Bob! That would save me a lot of money if I could get that right but I have a feeling aligning them would be a nightmare. What cardboard do you use?
Scott - Glad to hear it. let us know what you do
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#4
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I should have provided more details originally. Here's how I align fronts and backs.
1) Print 8-1/2" x 11" sheet of fronts on full-page label 2) Attach sheet to 8-1/2" x 11 sheet of cardboard 3) Cut the resulting piece down to the borders of the cards. I have cutting marks at the corners on my various (8-card Topps, 8-card Bowman, 9-card Topps, etc.) templates. 4) Cut the sheet of backs to the borders of the cards. 5) Attach backs to the cardboard. 6) Cut into single cards. It is critical that you attach the back sheet to the front/cardboard assembly so that it is on squarely, otherwise you will get misaligned or diamond-cut singles. The cardboard sheets I use are rather generic. A label on back identifies the maker as Pacon Corp., Appleton, Wis., "104225 White / Economy". I buy it in 22" x 28" sheets at a local craft shop. Hobby Lobby has similar sheets. I don't know what "weight" the sheets are; I just handle them in the store to get a feel for what seems to fit the vintage format. For some of my cards I print the fronts on Avery #8383 Glossy Postcard stock, and attach the label sheets with the backs. I use this for my 1954-55 Topps cards and 1955 Bowmans. These are actually too thin to closely replicate the vintage cards, but in a top-loader you wouldn't notice it. I have in the past printed the fronts on the glossy postcard stock, glued it to a cardboard core and attached the backs label, but have found that the glue too often finds it way onto the fronts. I've been at this for nearly 10 years and am still learning, tweaking my techniques.
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My (usually) vintage baseball/football card blog: http://boblemke.blogspot.com Link to my custom cards gallery: http://tinyurl.com/customcards |
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#5
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My method's a bit different:
Each sheet of cards has vertical 'cutting' marks along the top and bottom of the sheet, and horizontal 'cutting' marks along the left and right borders. These marks extend all the way to the borders. All you have to do is line them up on both the back and front sheets (and optionally, with a sheet between them). If you have a problem doing this, trim through the cut marks on the thicker sheet, all the way around. There are other issues you may encounter that I can walk you through - all easily solvable.
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$co++ Forre$+ |
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