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#1
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Why does it have to be your highest bid? Why cant it be one penny or $1 higher than the next highest bidder? This happend to me years ago on ebay and they wanted my highest bid, whereas I wanted one step higher than the next bidder. Anyways, I walked away. If you want the item at that price, go for it. If you feel leary, then step away from the situation. Good luck.
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#2
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T206's Graded low-mid 219/520 T201's SGC/PSA 2-5 50/50 T202's SGC/PSA 2-5 10/132 1938 Goudey Graded VG range 37/48 Last edited by freakhappy; 01-05-2013 at 11:25 PM. |
#3
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freakhappy,
That might be their logic but, if it were me, I would only offer what my highest bid above the next highest bidder was. Think about it, if the "winner" had never bid then the OP would have won the auction for a lesser price. A price which is one bid over the next highest bidder. Of course, my thinking would change if this was a really rare card or a card I needed to finish something (set, subset, back set, etc) and I had been looking for it for a long time. David |
#4
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Everyone above gave the best advice already, I just wanted to say that the one time I was offered a second chance from an ebay seller it worked out very well for me. I didn't try to go any lower (only because I didn't think to) but got the card for a price I was very happy with.
I had a little concern as I hadn't bought from this seller before, but it was a very smooth transaction & he seemed very appreciative that I was still willing to buy the card. The original winner backed out after winning the card, if I remember correctly. Good luck, I hope you get a good deal ![]() Sincerely, Clayton |
#5
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Thanks so much for all your thoughts. The bid below mine wasn't much below me, so there's really no "mark-up" there for me to counteroffer below my max bid (the auction started with a high reserve). I have till this afternoon and will continue to give it thought.
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collecting T206, 1940 Play Ball, 1947-66 Exhibits, and 1952 Bowman. e-mails preferred over PM. |
#6
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Not sure why you need to question this. Being offered at what you bid. As long as it comes with the guarantees of other ebay transctions, buy the card. You said yourself it is what you were willing to pay.
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#7
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I recently got an offer to buy in an auction I lost by a lot. There was an existing bid for $xxx. Bidder #1 bids much higher than I am willing to pay with 2 minutes to go ($xxx * 2). This bid was recorded as ($xxx + increment) I, as bidder #2, bid exactly what I was willing to pay, which was essentially $xxx + increment + few bucks, with 1 minute to go. With 6 seconds to go, Bidder #3, entered the fray with a programmed bid (I presume) of ($xxx * 2 + increment) and seemingly won.
Bidder #1 and Bidder #3 then both refuse as they essentially both placed high snipes (my theory) and essentially out sniped each other. Several days later I was offered the card and accepted the card for my original bid. Then a second card was offered from the same seller with essentially the same scenario. I offered to buy that one for less than my bid and was turned down. He then relisted and the second card and it ultimately sold for significantly less than my second offer. ![]() I never suspected shill bidding in this case, only a double snipe with bids higher than either sniper was willing to pay. Moral of the story: A high snipe can guarantee victory in an auction, but just make sure you are either alone or have deep pockets. ![]()
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RAUCOUS SPORTS CARD FORUM MEMBER AND MONSTER FATHER. GOOD FOR THE HOBBY AND THE FORUM WITH A VAULT IN AN UNDISCLOSED LOCATION FILLED WITH WORTHLESS NON-FUNGIBLES 274/1000 Monster Number |
#8
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I always assume it was shilled when I get a SCO. It is particularly blatently obvious when you get ther offer 5 minutes after the auction ends which does happen. If its something I have been looking for for a long time and never see, then I will consider lying down and buying it. If its something I know will come along again at some point, then I pass.
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Items for sale or trade here UPDATED 3-16-18 |
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