PSA August Special - Is it Special?

[Jenx34]

Thank you! As I prepare my first two submissions, I was wondering that very thing. If I hope a card is a 9, but know it could come back a 8 or even lower should I value it to my belief or if I value it as a 7, will it affect my grade with them thinking I don't believe in the card?

Based on your answer, I'm thinking too damned much! Which sadly is normal for me. I had even tried to find answers on the exact process to try and find out if the graders even know what valuation you gave. I couldn't find anything. But what you said makes sense. I know they have someone check in your cards, inventory them and enter them into the system. Don't they give them #'s so the graders don't even know whose cards they are grading?

I do have question about centering and the exact process. Does anyone know how they measure, what they use, etc? I've been using a rigid metal ruler with cork on the bottom and using mm and a spreadsheet to get the ratio. I've tried to guess in 1/4 mm increments if it wasn't exactly on the line. Am I on the right track? Anyone know that process?

The reason I check the centering is because I may not submit a card if it doesn't qualify. for example, a 1985 McGwire Olympic card. In a PSA 10, it's selling for good money. In a 9, not so much. I don't want to submit one that is automatically a 9 before it even gets to the grading.

Lastly, and maybe this deserves its own thread.... What are people's thoughts about choosing "no qualifier" and allowing them to do a straight grade? I have a few high end cards that to me are 8 or 9 quality, but the cut/centering is such by my measurements it could be no higher than a 7. It seems to me, that a really nice straight 7 would command more than an 8 or 9 (OC). I'm talking mostly 50's and 60's vintage and yes, max value is important to me as some of these may be sold. Thoughts?

Originally Posted by Aquarian Sports Cards

There is more misinformation about this topic than, I think, any other with regards to grading.

There are tons of people who believe if you don't value a card high enough you won't get a good grade.

The value is strictly what you would like to receive to replace the card should it be lost or damaged. If you low-ball yourself you are playing with fire, but it has NO bearing on the grade.

I have been submitting to PSA for a LONG time and have never noticed any correlation between valuations and grades. My last submission I valued everything at or below $500 which was more than enough to protect my investment. I got back a 1965 Topps Mantle in 8 (will sell for somewhere around 3k) and a Seaver Rookie in 7 (will sell for around 1k) I always set my value at an amount I need to protect myself if the unthinkable happens, NOT at a value I hope they achieve.