Some helpful suggestions for new collectors

[the 'stache]

III. Tips For Getting Started

Once you have everything you need-the starter kit, the supplies to store your cards safely, and the information to familiarize yourself with the collecting niche you've decided upon, it's time to start buying cards.

I. The very first piece of advice I'd give to a new collector is to start small. Though that T206 Cobb, or 1953 Bowman Color Mickey Mantle might wow your socks off, those cards will cost quite a bit to acquire. And, if you're going to buy one of those cards, you really want to know what you're doing first. I referenced creating a "starter's kit" earlier, and provided a small list of items that every collector should have. I would also add baseball cards to that list. I've created a small collection of commons for all the years I am collecting, and whenever I buy a card from a particular set, I compare any card I get in to the common card. These commons won't be expensive. You don't even need a high quality common. In fact, it's probably better if the commons have a little bit of wear. I even purchase a few pretty beat up cards from each decade, ones exhibiting issues like water damage, creases and wrinkles, paper loss, edge and corner damage.

II. Get to know the cards you are buying. Say you've decided you want to collect 1953 Bowman Color cards. Great choice! Before you go buying a Stan Musial, a Mickey Mantle or a Pee Wee Reese, pick up one of those commons I referred to. You want to become familiar with the card stock used to produce your favorite set. Look at the common card under magnification. Learn to recognize how the edges of these cards look under your loupe. This section on the Net 54 website serves as an introduction to spotting alterations, forgeries and reprints (scroll down the page to see this). One of the biggest problems you will be faced with as a collector is trimming. Trimming is a form of alteration where a card with "soft" edges is sliced off, slightly, to create the appearance of a sharper edge (or corner), which, of course, would make the card more valuable. Take one of your commons, an x-acto knife, and a ruler, and cut along the edge. Look at the cut edge, and compare it to one that has not been cut. Examine the edges for signs of chipping, a natural byproduct of normal card production. While there are other things to be looking out for (ie bleaching, re-papering of cardboard loss, soaking, etc), trimming is one way an unscrupulous seller can try to pull a fast one on a buyer. A trimmed card immediately lowers the card value, though it might improve upon its visual appeal. If sent to a company like PSA, Beckett, or SGC, a card grader would recognize this alteration, and label the card as altered. Never assume that a card you've purchased is unaltered. It's your money, and a proactive collector will experience less heartache. By familiarizing yourself with the look, and the feel of the cards you are going to collect, you immediately reduce the likelihood that you're going to get taken for a ride. You can even do as I do, and "smell" cards when you get them (if they're not entombed in a graded card slab, of course). That's not a joke. A 40 or 50 year old card will have a different smell than a card that was produced a month or two ago. While printing technology has advanced quite a bit from 1953, that can also work for you. A reprinted card might look like the real thing at first glance, but if you are careful, and using all of your senses, you should be able to tell the difference. The smell, the feel, the appearance--something will just "feel" different. Just remember, once you've done your due diligence, it's okay to ask questions. You can examine something and still not be sure. It's always smart to ask for help, especially when you're going to spend a considerable amount of money on a single card for the first time. If you're not sure, start a topic on the correct forum (here for vintage cards, and the main forum for pre-war). If it's an auction you're unsure of, provide a link, and as much information as you can. If it's a card you're looking to buy in person, take a picture (or, even better, a scan) of the back and front of the card, preferably without any top loader, etc (if this is feasible). Reprints and forgeries will each have tell tale signs, and experienced collectors will know what to look for. By asking questions, you will learn from the knowledge and experience of veteran collectors. These gems you learn will help protect you. Knowledge is power, and the scam artists out there are counting on an uneducated buyer to make their money.

III. Buy from only trustworthy sources. So, you're looking to buy that killer 1957 Topps Roberto Clemente. You've been looking on EBay, and boom, there it is. You click on the link, and the card you see is beautiful. Do you click on the buy it now, and shoot off a few hundred bucks of Paypal to the seller?

No. God, I hope not. At least, not until you've done some real scrutinizing.

The first thing you should do is look at who you're buying from. If you're seeing a seller with the user name Somenewguy101 (5), you need to be on your guard. Is it possible they are a legitimate seller, and the card you are looking to buy is authentic? Of course. Even the most trustworthy sellers on EBay started out at one time, so a low feedback score is not indicative of a person's trustworthiness. Likewise, somebody with a 10,000 feedback score (and a 100% approval rating) is not guaranteed to be selling the real deal. Let me allude back to my investment experience. You've all heard of Bernie Madoff, correct? He was an investment advisor that swindled millions from his clients. Before his crooked ways were exposed, he had a good reputation, and wealthy investors trusted him with their money. Never assume. Don't let a 100% approval rating lull you into a false confidence. You need to be like a CSI, weighing all the evidence. You need to be looking at the EBay post (or wherever you are looking to buy) itself. Is this a picture that somebody pulled off the net, and slapped into their auction? Or, does the picture have their user name on EBay included with it? There's a site that does searches by image called Tineye. You provide the image URL (web address), and it scours the web for that same picture. If you're buying a card, and the identical picture is coming up thousands of times, then you have to consider if you're not looking at a reprint. Is the seller providing multiple, clear pictures of the card (and card slab, if it's graded), or is there one blurry picture of the card in one of those lucite card blocks of doom? Read the information included in the auction. Are they dealers? Or, did they "find this card in their grandfather's attic"? Use common sense. Look, too, at the seller's EBay history. Have they sold similar vintage baseball cards before? If not, that in and of itself does not mean they are up to no good. But if they sell like-valued cards, then it increases the likelihood that the card is authentic. All of this is important to read, and consider. If you have questions, or concerns, contact the seller! A legit seller will provide information, and additional pictures. A scam artist won't respond, or they'll come up with an excuse as to why they can't provide other pictures. And look over the pictures that are provided. If it's a PSA 8 you're buying, does the card's condition exhibit what you'd expect for the grade? As an example, here's a visual representation of how PSA grades their cards. This shows several different 1952 Topps Mickey Mantles, one at each different grade level from Gem Mint 10 all the way down to Poor 1. If it's a graded card, are there frosted borders to the slab? Is the slab damaged? Does the flip look...off? Is the typography used inconsistent with the font PSA has long-used? Is the spacing off between letters and numbers?

If after all of this, you're still not sure, ask for help on the forum.

The B/S/T (buy/sell/trade) on Net 54 is an excellent place to buy and sell cards. This is a community of hobbyists, and we do all we can to police the B/S/T, and the hobby itself. But you should always keep your guard up. Listen to the little voice in your head. If something doesn't feel right, ask for help, or don't buy. Unless you're hot for a one of a kind card (or an ultra rare issue), chances are there will be another example of the card you're looking for available very soon. A good collector never acts irrationally. Patience is a virtue.

This is a great hobby. But, as with any other investment, a certain amount of education is necessary to trade, buy and sell safely. Don't ever let yourself be pressured into doing something you're not comfortable with. Use your resources. In doing so, you'll avoid getting taken advantage of.

IV. Lastly, have fun! Remember why you love baseball, and collecting cards in the first place. The hobby can be a little intimidating in the early stages. There are some really valuable cards that change hands. Remember, this is something to do for your enjoyment. It's not a competition. Don't ever hesitate to ask for help when you have questions. Read the forum, and contribute. "Pay it forward" if you can. Once you've been collecting for a while, share the knowledge you've acquired, and help those who are just starting out. That's the kind of spirit this hobby needs more of.

If you have any questions, please feel free to message me. I check the forum at least every few days, and I'm happy to help.

Bill