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#51
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One of the reasons I like the quality of the ultras and the lack of a screw. I once had a few pro-molds for the small bowmans that did not seem to close properly. After looking, I realized that the screw was threading both the top and bottom pieces creating a gap. After opening the hole a bit on the top piece so the threads would only catch the bottom they tightened up. This might be part of your issue.
Sorry if you are bummed on the cases.
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- Justin D. Player collecting - Lance Parrish, Jim Davenport, John Norlander. Successful B/S/T with - Highstep74, Northviewcats, pencil1974, T2069bk, tjenkins, wilkiebaby11, baez578, Bocabirdman, maddux31, Leon, Just-Collect, bigfish, quinnsryche...and a whole bunch more, I stopped keeping track, lol. |
#52
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Good point and I'm actually going to try that. I ordered some penny sleeves for the larger vintage cards yesterday along with some properly sized toploaders. Not sure if the cards in the sleeves will then in turn be too big to go in the Pro Molds, but it's worth trying. I figure a card in a sleeve inside the thicker case won't look all that different than a BVG slab.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 02-01-2017 at 07:34 AM. |
#53
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That may be worth looking at too. I will continue to play around with them and report back. Of course the seller empathized with my situation, but did not offer to refund me.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#54
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I have a model car rat tail file that will work perfectly to open up the aperture of the top hole. Thank you again!!!! ![]() |
#55
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Those look pretty sharp. Do those offer UV protection? Nice presentation. Z |
#56
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Thanks for the kind words. Drew
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Drew |
#57
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Seriously thinking about cracking these out and then just placing them in vintage sleeves and top loaders. My Mick and Mays, although in older cut sleeves and top loaders, look much better, imo.
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 |
#58
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So are LED lights proven to be better than fluorescent tubes in regards to fading cards?
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[FONT="Lucida Sans Unicode"]CampyFan39 |
#59
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From what I have read (but do your own research) LED's are the way to go.
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 |
#60
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My oversized penny sleeves and toploaders for 1952-56 finally came in today. Will have to see what I think of them and report back tonight.
Also for some of my more valuable older cards, I'm going to try the penny sleeve with the Pro Mold and see how that works.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#61
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![]() Monday update: Yes, vintage penny sleeves used on the cards before putting them in the Pro Mold's does solve the movement issue. It's not the most elegant solution in the world, but it works and the finished product doesn't look all that different than a BVG slab with the type of sleeve they use. The penny sleeves I have for the vintage cards are actually a tad bigger than the recessed area of the Pro Mold case, but if you are careful to center the card going in and make sure that the card itself does not land outside of the recessed area before applying the screwdriver, you will be fine. The resulting pressure on the case when closed is not sufficient enough to indent the sleeve or cause any additional strain on the card. Honestly I think for run-of-the mill cards they will probably look cleaner in a toploader with the sleeve, but I like the idea of the rigidity and UV protection provided by the Pro Mold...(if nothing much else about the case). At least for the likes of Mantle, Robinson, and Mays. Will see how it goes. If I get this home and decide I hate it in a day, I do finally have plenty of properly-sized top-loaders now... -John
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 02-06-2017 at 02:26 PM. |
#62
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![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#63
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John, I don't think that looks bad at all. I do, however, share your thought that a vintage size sleeve and toploader might be just as good as long as you aren't trying to display the cards. Good either way. Nice Jackie!
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk |
#64
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That looks good, imo, John.
I have recently put a few of my 52's in the vintage sleeves and top loaders that I purchased, and I also like them. I just need to buy team bags for all of them now to keep the scratches and scuffs to a minimum. If I was displaying my cards, I'd bite the bullet and purchase some Pro-Molds state side and do exactly as you did.
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 Last edited by irv; 02-06-2017 at 06:44 PM. |
#65
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Thanks guys.
Well, after messing with 3 or 4 more screw downs tonight, I finally said screw it and am back to toploaders. Simplicity works best, I think. For more than just a few cards, the setup with the Pro-Mold and aligning the penny sleeve (which is too big) correctly in the case is just too much of a pain. After I stripped about 2 screws just now, I took them out and a minute later everything was tucked nice and neat into toploaders. They provide good protection, they look good, and they are cheap and very easy to work with / quick to change cards in and out of when you need to. I think I was making an easy solution difficult from the start just out of the desire to try something different. ![]()
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 02-06-2017 at 06:26 PM. |
#66
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I honestly thought these would work perfect for guys like us, but hearing how much they moved around, I guess that isn't the case, sadly.
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 Last edited by irv; 02-06-2017 at 06:43 PM. |
#67
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No problem. It was a $10 experiment that I was glad to pay for. For me from here on out it will be sleeves and toploaders or card savers for anything that is not graded. Other cases are just to difficult to use en masse. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#68
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Dale, are you using a CCD printer, like a Canon Canoscan? If not, I highly recommend one. They are relatively cheap - just over $100 new. You'll want to rescan your entire collection and they work great on all slabs (BVG included).
Rob ![]() Quote:
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#69
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The look with a slab on top of a sleeve is a bit busy, to be sure. I don't mind how BVG slabs look, my only problem was with the Pro-Mold cases and the cards moving. But yes, toploaders and sleeves are very easy and inexpensive and the cards look great in them.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#70
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I think the problem with the BVG slabs is the bags/sleeves they put inside them mostly? Some bags are fairly smooth/even but some others, which are my worst scans, are bagged up so to speak. In my FlickR link, there are around 10-15 graded PSA slabbed cards, and although you can tell they are based on the pic quality, none of them are as bad as my recent BVG graded card scans. I'll have to look into one of those printers, Rob. With my ever failing eyesight, I need the best I can get! ![]() Thanks ![]()
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 |
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