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#1
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So in the modern card world, sets are far cheaper than trying to crack packs or put together a set, and you can get one substantially cheaper already collated than if you tried to put it together yourself. Most likely because the bulk f the set is junk, and you're doing the seller a favor by taking 750 junk cards off his hands to say you have a set.
However, in the prewar world, this is very different. Assuming they are in an acceptable condition, even the most common of cards is collectible. This being said, would you pay a per-card premium if you were to buy a complete set/subset of cards? Such as a T206 PD150 set, or SL set, or portrait set, or whatever floats your boat. Assuming all cards were equal or close in quality, and sold for an average of $100 per card, would you pay, say, $125 card to save yourself a few years of chasing them down, or would there still be a "bulk rate discount" for lack of a better term?
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****Southern League**** Old Mill (SL) PSA 3: 3/48 Old Mill (SL) PSA 4: 5/48 Hindu Brown: 1/34 ****NY Highlanders Team Set**** Basic Team Set: 13/28 Master Team Set: 13/315 |
#2
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I would still expect it to get a discount. Main reasoning: the majority of people wanting to buy it will already have some percentage of those cards in the same grade. So they would then be getting duplicates, and would need to resell the duplicates.
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-- PWCC: The Fish Stinks From the Head PSA: Regularly Get Cheated BGS: Can't detect trimming on modern SGC: Closed auto authentication business JSA: Approved same T206 Autos before SGC Oh, what a difference a year makes. |
#3
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It’s all about the hunt so more fun to collect the set yourself
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Favorite MLB quote. " I knew we could find a place to hide you". Lee Smith talking about my catching abilities at Cubs Fantasy camp. |
#4
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If it was something like a Ty Cobb back run, I could see asking a premium. If you are talking about a subset with common players, then expect to give a discount.
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#5
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I think, as the OP suggests, it's largely a function of how much the cheapest cards are worth. For a 1979 Topps set, with commons worth $0.01, you get a discount for buying the complete set. However, when I've seen auction houses offer a set both ways simultaneously (set break into individual lots and a single lot for the complete set), the higher price has generally gone to the complete set rather than to the sum of its parts. I wouldn't expect that to happen with, say, 1934 Goudey in VG or T205 in Gd, but if the individual commons are worth $50 instead of $15, I think that's enough for the bulk discount to evaporate and indeed for the discount to flip over to a slight premium.
But it would be interesting to see what would happen if you hit the territory of a set worth millions of dollars. That might shrink the pool of potential bidders enough that someone could pick up a complete (524) PSA 5 T206 set for less than the cards would have brought as 524 separate lots. |
#6
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It all depends on the set. I have sold rare sets or near sets for a premium as it took 10-15 years to accumulate the parts and may not be reproducible unless one is to pay up. That being said any mainstream issue should sell at a discount vs its parts.
-Rhett
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Check out my YouTube Videos highlighting VINTAGE CARDS https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbE..._as=subscriber ebay store: kryvintage-->https://www.ebay.com/sch/kryvintage/...p2047675.l2562 Last edited by rhettyeakley; 11-21-2017 at 09:16 AM. |
#7
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I agree with Rhett.
Sets that would be excruciatingly painful (10+ years or more) for a collector to put together themselves should bring a premium, whereas sets that can be assembled fairly easily will typically be sold at less than the sum of their parts, as most collectors would rather put it together themselves. |
#8
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Mile High Auctions is breaking a set of T3s right now and selling them both ways, individually or as a set, whichever ends up higher. My guess is the individual cards will be a higher total at the end. It's not a rare enough set to have a premium, imo. (as others have noted too concerning less rare sets)
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com |
#9
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i think it depends on the condition and the difficulty of completing the set. i would pay a premium to have a complete set that was difficult to put together. i say condition, because a set like T3, if i ever finish mine, and its well constructed with no creases, nice corners, and good registration across the board...i wouldn't part with it for less than a premium. If the set is still doable as it was constructed, which the T3 would be, than i say a slight premium. if its really tough, a greater premium.
yes, the chase is nice, but many sets are tough to put together consistently, and there should be a premium for the effort when finished. |
#10
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I don't think I could afford to buy most prewar sets I'd be interested in, but I could see it being worth a premium if the pieces rarely come available for sale. If I had the funds and wanted the set enough I would be willing to pay a little extra
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#11
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ps.. Same thinking goes for subsets too.
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Leon Luckey www.luckeycards.com Last edited by Leon; 11-23-2017 at 06:09 AM. |
#12
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mile high has only 79 cards (and no boxers). i wouldn't call that near complete, but that is me...misleading. for what its worth, most of the "set vs individual cards" auction "contests" that have been done in hockey at Classic have gone in favor of the sets. not sure that means much as that format lends itself to the set bids i think, since people (like me) feel like its often useless to get worked up pursuing an individual card or several when that won't matter possibly. not a fan of the format. make a decision and go with it!
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#13
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****Southern League**** Old Mill (SL) PSA 3: 3/48 Old Mill (SL) PSA 4: 5/48 Hindu Brown: 1/34 ****NY Highlanders Team Set**** Basic Team Set: 13/28 Master Team Set: 13/315 |
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