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#1
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What is the current advice on this card holding it's value? At this point I don't suspect it will suddenly not become "the" Jeter rookie, and the guy is going to be a Hall of Famer in less than a year. My LCS has one for $250 that would probably grade around a 6 or a 7 and I'm wondering if it may be worth picking up.
Thanks for any help, again I'm a 95% vintage guy.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#2
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Raw? Make sure it wasn't previously graded before and came back short. Alot of these are cut short from the factory.
But I don't see his prices going down. Like Trout I keep waiting for it but in the end I just sucked it up and bought. Like you said its THE Jeter to get Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk |
#3
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^^what he said.
If you're hell-bent on getting one now and have the budget I'd highly recommend buying one already graded. This card has a reputation for a reason! If your budget is right around 250-300 you may want to consider a PSA 10 Topps rookie. Quickly becoming a classic. |
#4
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__________________
Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#5
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I may buy a graded one as well, just not sure how the extent of surface damage works on these. For example I saw some 7's and 7.5's online that had scratches I was surprised were allowed for a 7. But the more of these I looked at, virtually all of them are that way. (I'm not going for a 9 or anything like that). I have a feeling this may wind up being the equivalent of the '86 Fleer Jordan for 90's baseball cards - and want to grab one that's decently priced now just to sock away before it's too late.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 11-08-2019 at 10:16 AM. |
#6
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This is the raw one I just bought. My guess is that it would grade anywhere from a 6 to a 7, but of course with TPG’s these days...who knows. It looks good to me, but there is some of the usual surface wear on the foil, and it is not an 8 or above card or anything like that.
Sorry, it’s difficult as hell to get a decent picture with both the foil on this card and the case, but here are a few attempts: ![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 11-08-2019 at 01:00 PM. |
#7
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I think a card with a lot of upside are his Little Sun items.
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Love Ty Cobb rare items and baseball currency from the 19th Century. |
#8
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Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk |
#9
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So. The more I look at this card, I'm wondering if it is a factory short cut. The SP Jeter's are notorious for them. The top of his cap on the back is slightly cut off, and depending on which time I measure - I sometimes think it's somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16 short. Other times I compare it to another card and think it's fine.
Thoughts? BGS and SGC have traditionally had a little more leeway for factory miscuts than PSA.
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#10
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Yes its short. You can see the full NY on my PSA 5
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk |
#11
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Not sure I seen any quite as short as yours but I only checked the first and part of the second page. https://www.ebay.com/b/1993-Derek-Je...13/bn_57333983
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52 Topps cards. https://www.flickr.com/photos/144160280@N05/ http://www.net54baseball.com/album.php?albumid=922 Last edited by irv; 11-09-2019 at 06:45 PM. |
#12
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I’m not sure that alone means it’s short though; could also just be indicative of a centering issue. If you look at Jeter’s feet and his name on the front of my card, they are slightly high in comparison to others. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. Last edited by jchcollins; 11-10-2019 at 06:55 AM. |
#13
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Lots of room under his shoe, more than usual. It's a centering issue. A raw nice but not mint Jeter sitting in a local store trimmed? Let's not get too paranoid.
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ |
#14
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Thanks Peter. I think you’re right. I’ve measured it about a dozen times in the last two days, and if it is short, it’s microscopically short. At any rate, I have an SGC 7 on the way that should be here early next week which I will be able to compare it to. I think it’s a centering issue as well… Ironically it makes Jeter on the front of the card be a tad bit better proportioned? These damn modern cards, I really should stick to vintage. ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#15
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ Last edited by Peter_Spaeth; 11-10-2019 at 02:30 PM. |
#16
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![]() Unfortunately that’s my specialty - usually with vintage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
#17
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Measuring it again is not going to change the result, the card is stable, I assure you.
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Net 54-- the discussion board where people resent discussions. ![]() My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ |
#18
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This much I will agree is true, LOL. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Cubs of all eras. Currently working on 1956, '63 and '72 Topps complete sets. |
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