Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyruscobb
One method is to submerge the card under water for an extended period. If the card starts to separate, it is real. If it does not, then it is fake.
Another method is to Light the corner on fire. If you see a green flame, the card is real. A blue flame signifies a fake. 
Haha. In all seriousness, I do exactly what you are doing - Compare commons with marquee cards under a loupe. I check for print dots, texture, thickness, etc.
This is going to sound weird, but the card must also pass my smell test - a literal, not proverbial, smell test one. Old cardboard has a distinct smell to it, at least it does to me. |
Well my low grade Aaron rookie already has one corner that started to thin or singe or something, so it didn't need the fire test
I try to use those other measures that you mentioned, but it always feels like a best guess situation when you're not experienced in dealing with fakes or reprints. Should order a few for a more direct comparisons. I've read the standard info about them feeling clearly more glossy, but it'd help to actually have something in hand.
From what I can tell, I doubt too many fakes would pass the loupe pixel exam? No idea how likely it is for the exact print to be copied/replicated successfully, but with what I've read about cards like the '51 Bowman Mantle and the '86 Fleer Jordan, that doesn't usually happen