Quote:
Originally Posted by irv
As I don't play the auto game, exactly what differences are they looking for that are noticed between a sig designated an 8 or a 9?
It seems silly to me, but that's jmo, on how a sig can be designated a grade the same way a card can be?
I can understand an old faded one compared to a well preserved one but if say, Ruth for example signed it, what makes his signature less worthy compared to other ones he has signed?
I don't know about anyone else, but if I had a proven, beyond a reasonable doubt, signed Ruth card or ball, I really don't think I'd be concerning myself with how well it was written by him.
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As you know, the value of virtually everything in the hobby is highly driven by optics/aesthetics. A graded Ruth ball has two variables: the grade for the ball and the grade for the signature, from which a “TOTAL GRADE” is calculated. Typically, it’s a simple formula: (Ball Grade + Auto Grade)/2. However, PSA will give half bumps based on excellent eye appeal. For instance, a 6 ball grade and 7 signature grade with super eye appeal may be given an overall 7 grade (vs. the 6.5 formula grade) if PSA feels the overall aesthetics merit a bump. Totally subjective. Regarding whether a signature should be graded an 8 or 9, we are unfortunately at the mercy of the authenticators. I’ve seen 8s that should be 9s and vice-versa. No different than the ongoing complaints we hear from collectors who are upset with their card submission grades/assessments.