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#1
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: Matt
I was wondering if any out there could share their tips on authenticating 1939 Play Ball cards, aside for the usual paper-stock thickness and quality. Since the cards are simple black and white images on the front, coloring or stamping of player names isn't available as an indicator. Below are two images of an authentic (99% sure, but correct me if I'm wrong) Joe D - the second is a blow up of the area at the top of the card by his hat. What would I see in a forgery to know that it's a fake? |
#2
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: Steve
Matt, This card looks good, same characteristics as my graded examples. Sorry, other than the typical counterfeit red flags, I can't help you much on identifying '39 fakes. |
#3
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: identify7
Some people think that the stuff that cards are made of glows if exposed to black light, unless it is old stuff - like anything pre-war. Old card material does not glow. You can pick up a cheap longwave black light (aka. UV lamp) in a hardware store or hobby shop. Try it. |
#4
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: Frank Wakefield
And those who think the old cards glow and the new ones don't are correct. |
#5
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: Matt
Gil - would you mind sharing what the other indicators are? Can you use the scans I provided to show what would be different in a forgery? |
#6
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: Chris Mc
I am close to finishing the set ,need 10 more. I think if you have a good quality scan that has not been photo shopped the differences are easy to see. The most obvious is the bright white color on the border and the bleached out photo portion of the card. Hope this helps. |
#7
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: identify7
Sure, I did not intend to be mysterious here. But in honesty, this is not my expertise, I am a student. And I may just be one chapter ahead of you. The book I am on now is entitled "Judging the Authenticity of Early Baseball Cards" by David Rudd Cycleback. |
#8
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: Matt
I read Cycleback's book - it's available online for free, but he doesn't didcuss anything after 1930 and my questions here are specific to the 1939 Play Ball set because it doesn't use many of the other indicators on earlier issues like players names or borders. If anyone has any more epxertise, it would be appreciated. |
#9
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: davidcycleback
I don't know who has done Play Ball reprints, but I owned some old Larry Frisch reprints and they weren't much like the real cards. The stock was thin and white-- nothing like the genuine Play Ball stock. I think other 'official' reprints, if they exist, will also look noticeably different in stock and visual ways ways. |
#10
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: Matt
Thank you Mr. Cycleback! |
#11
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Authenticating 1939 Play Ball (DiMaggio Example)
Posted By: davidcycleback
I still say that if you have some cheap commons, you should have little trouble identifying reprints and fakes. All reprints and fakes should be clearly different, sometimes not even close. If you use a blacklight, even better. It may come across as mundane stuff, but reprints really do have a tough time duplicating stock color, gloss, thickness, opacity. I've compared Topps own reprints to the original cards, and the reprints failed with the flying colors all of the just mentioned tests. |
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