Matting or free float? what's your preference?

[william_9]

I like vintage items with worn edges. They have character and history behind them. I'd most likely show the edges.

[PhilNap]

In the free float gehrig piece is the item touching the glass or is it shadow boxed? Also, how is it mounted to the backing?

[David Atkatz]

Originally Posted by william_9

I like vintage items with worn edges. They have character and history behind them. I'd most likely show the edges.

+1

[3-2-count]

Originally Posted by David Atkatz

+1

Free floating for sure. David that picture is remarkable.......

[Rob D.]

The one thing to keep in mind when going the free-floating route is to consider whether you want to item being framed to come in contact with the glass. Many times this should be avoided, especially when framing vintage pennants. I've seen vintage photos become damaged when removed from a frame in which they were pressed against the class for years.

Obviously it's possible to "free float" without the item touching the glass, but often I see collectors go this route with the item being simply pressed between the front glass and back. That's often not a good idea.

[mjkm90]

I've mounted my most valued pennants away from the glass


, but have others against (but not smashed by) the glass.

Considering they do not have sensitive photographic images on them, why should they not be against the glass?

[Rob D.]

Originally Posted by mjkm90

Considering they do not have sensitive photographic images on them, why should they not be against the glass?

Depending on the climate and environment (and the condition of the pennant) the printing on a pennant can stick to the glass.

[Leon]

I agree with Rob D above. Glass against a picture or other antiquity can be a recipe for disaster. I have at least one very modest (thank goodness) piece that is stuck completely to the glass. It is a piece I am going to sell and I am going to be very up front about it. IF anyone wants to take it out of the frame/glass it will definitely be sticking and take paper chunks with it. For this composite, I just checked again, and it is probably 1/4" to an 1/8th of an inch off of the glass. Of course I had it professionally done for about $350, which isn't cheap...but it is some of the smartest money I have spent in the hobby. The high end art shop did a fantastic job with archival everything and a new kind of glass that reduces glare signicantly (and of course is UV protected).