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#1
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It's an odd assortment, of the 86 genuine T206's only 2 are 150/350 subjects the rest are 350 and 350/460 subjects.
The bottom 2 rows look like sections that came out of a book or magazine but it's hard to tell from your pictures. |
#2
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#3
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#4
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How can you determine that without actually seeing the backs?
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#5
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Here's the breakdown of the print groups in the collage Print group 1 (150/350) = 2 Print group 2 (350) only = 51 Print group 3 (350-460) = 24 Print group 4 (460 only) = 4 Print group 5 (super prints) = 5 Last edited by Pat R; 11-15-2022 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Added print group breakdown |
#6
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If we decide to soak these cards in water to hopefully remove the backs, would it be considered altering the card? Would SGC grade a card that was soaked in water?
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#7
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__________________
Leon Luckey Last edited by Leon; 11-20-2022 at 10:56 AM. |
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Hopefully, distilled water doesn't leave a trace. I wonder if it's better to show a trace of soaking or whether to keep the paper residue on the back.
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#9
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That's a personal choice but, for my experiences, trying to get the glue off was better than leaving it. And each card could be different with yours. Here is one I did again. Close to half the back, which had writing, had glue and paper remnants on it. It got a numerical grade, obviously. .
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Leon Luckey Last edited by Leon; 11-17-2022 at 06:57 AM. |
#10
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If you do a bad job they will be considered altered. It is one of those things that if they can tell you did it they will consider it altered. If done so they can't tell you done it you will get a number grade. With "proper" soaking they will also get a higher grade and be worth way more cash. Soaking can remove the staining and many of those creases and greatly reduce the others.
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#12
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I would honestly suggest buying some complete beat to crap 60s or 70s cards and practice. After some practice soaking/cleaning cards you will then be ready to do a way better job on the tobacco cards. The most important part is the drying/pressing part so you can't tell the soaking pressing was done. |
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