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  #1  
Old 02-06-2024, 10:26 AM
facex002 facex002 is offline
Tim
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Default Questions for set builders

My collection has never involved building sets, but there are some that I really like and am thinking about taking the plunge. For those of you who build sets, I have a few questions: 1. Are there particular strategies you follow in building your sets? 2. Do you build multiple sets at once, or does that make it too difficult and you focus on one at a time? 3. Do you prefer all raw, all graded or a combo and why? 4. Finally, what is the best way to store sets (in-progress or completed) so that you can also enjoy seeing the cards?

Thanks,
Tim
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  #2  
Old 02-06-2024, 02:14 PM
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Elberson Elberson is offline
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Ok…..I’m a set builder here. It is lots of fun.


Ok say your building 1975 Topps for an example in ex condition

1. Are there particular strategies you follow in building your sets?

I start with large or larger lots. I buy 100-300 cards lots, take out the best for the set. You can always buy singles for the set as you go. My go to is Greg morris on eBay. There always breaking sets and you can piece together the set from them. I save the stars and higher value cards for last, that way you can be more patient and wait for the good ones to pop up

2. Do you build multiple sets at once, or does that make it too difficult and you focus on one at a time?

I do one year at a time, keeps you focused!!! With your left overs? You can alway start another set or sell off to fund the set

3. Do you prefer all raw, all graded or a combo and why?

I like raw, but for the bigger cards? Mantle, mays, Aaron, or high value RC’s…..I do go graded (less chance for fake cards)

4. Finally, what is the best way to store sets (in-progress or completed) so that you can also enjoy seeing the cards?

I put my sets in double shoe boxes 1600 or 1800 count boxes. For me it works. Some people like binders. Easy to look through your set. I don’t like them but that’s me…….

Just remember to have fun and enjoy as your doing it

Last edited by Elberson; 02-06-2024 at 03:21 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-06-2024, 02:48 PM
deweyinthehall deweyinthehall is offline
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I will echo the use of Greg Morris as a source for raw cards as you build vintage sets. Also check out Battersbox.

As I build sets (going back in time one year at a time - completed 1966 last summer, starting with 1965 now) I start with the priciest card in the set, which for most of the 60s is Mickey. Then, using a Beckett Vintage magazine I literally go to the next most expensive and so on. Intermixed with this, I will get bunches of 40-50 from Morris auctions, Battersbox, Scottsdale Sportscards and elsewhere. When buying high dollar cards, I do go for graded but I prefer SGC - their 4s and 4.5s look great and fit the condition I'm looking for and they generally go for less than similar in PSA. I eventually break them out anyway and place them in the album when the set is done.

As I'm building the set I keep the cards organized by teams in a 660-ct box. When complete, into an album organized by number - it's a habit I picked up 30 years ago and I remain a slave to it.
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  #4  
Old 02-06-2024, 02:58 PM
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JollyElm JollyElm is offline
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1094. Starfirster
When deciding to work on building a complete set, the preference to go after the big money cards (Hall of Famers, rookies, etc.) right away, and not leave them to become an ever-increasing financial burden later on down the road.

See also: Starlaster - taking the less stressful completion route of checking off as many of the common, lower cost cards you can, and leaving the arduous task of securing the big money cards for some hypothetical point in the future.

See also: Low-Card Diet - chasing the easier and generally less expensive low number series cards first.

See also: High-Card Diet - chasing the rarer and more expensive high number series cards first.

See also: “Sometimes the cards we want the least are the cards we want the most” - the frustrating plaint of any complete set chaser when he reaches the point of being forced to buy cards he couldn’t care less about in order to mark them off of the checklist.
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  #5  
Old 02-06-2024, 03:25 PM
mikemb mikemb is offline
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I am a set builder also. There is no right or wrong way to build a set, whatever works for you. Battersbox and Greg Morris are both good sellers.

1. Are there particular strategies you follow in building your sets?

Agree with Elberson you want to look for some large lots. Otherwise, you will be spending a lot of money on postage costs. Don't be afraid to buy lots where you will get some cards you already have. Some might be an upgrade and the others you can trade/sell. I try to get stars as I go along so I avoid paying lots of money at the end. If you are looking at a set with Mantle, you know the price will probably go up so get it early.

2. Do you build multiple sets at once, or does that make it too difficult and you focus on one at a time?

I do one at a time. Right now I am 5 cards away from finishing my 1959 Topps set. I have picked out my next set to build, the 1965 Topps Transfers Insert set. While I will not start it, I will look for the Mantle.

3. Do you prefer all raw, all graded or a combo and why?

I get raw cards except for the major 1 or 2 top stars which I usually want graded.

4. Finally, what is the best way to store sets (in-progress or completed) so that you can also enjoy seeing the cards?

I am a binder guy. For my sets from 1965 to the present, I keep in team order based on favorite to least favorite teams. For 1964 back, the sets are in numerical order. I generally set up the binder with plastic sheets and put the cards in their correct spot as I go along.

Again do what works for you and you can always try a different approach in the next set.

Good luck!!

Mike

Last edited by mikemb; 02-06-2024 at 03:26 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2024, 06:04 PM
BearBailey BearBailey is offline
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I think my strategy depends on what I am going after, for a major set say 1965 topps I would start with lots, the key cards and the high series/shortprints. For a smaller set like the 1969 topps supers I would go card by card.
I only build 1 major set at a time but always working on others I tend to be picky on grades so I might be working on my T3 set forever. But I’d gladly work on a 50s or 60s topps set with a 63 fleer, 71 greatest moments or something smaller at the same time.
I prefer a mix of raw and graded just looking for the best card so I mix raw with psa and sgc graded cards.
I store them in shoeboxes that fit both graded, raw, and semi rigid holders and everything is in number order.
Most importantly do what you like there is no right or wrong answer, just enjoy it.
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2024, 06:28 PM
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dealme dealme is offline
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I also tend to start with a large lot, but it seems I differ in that I like to have two or three going at once. It adds variety and keeps me engaged when I may be struggling to pick up cards for a given set. But as the others have mentioned, enjoy the hunt.

Good luck!

Mark


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  #8  
Old 02-06-2024, 10:37 PM
facex002 facex002 is offline
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Thanks for your responses! I appreciate the advice and look forward to the journey ahead. Now, I have to decide what set I want to start with!
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  #9  
Old 02-07-2024, 08:23 PM
cesarcap cesarcap is offline
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If you haven't picked a set, try something from when you were 8-11 yrs old (or whenever you first started collecting cards). Or something a relative or friend's older brother had that piqued your interest. 1st set for me was 75 baseball but the 1st vintage set I coveted was 69 as my neighbor's older brother had it.

I keep my sets binders: still have some that are from junior high school (early 80's). Enjoy!
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  #10  
Old 02-09-2024, 07:59 AM
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jchcollins jchcollins is offline
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My functional advice is probably not the most fun or most economical (but perhaps...) way to go about building a vintage set - but just buy it whole. That's what I did with my '71 Topps set when I ran across a deal I couldn't refuse a few years ago. I can't say I regret it.
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Last edited by jchcollins; 02-10-2024 at 08:07 AM.
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  #11  
Old 02-09-2024, 04:02 PM
stkuhl stkuhl is offline
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Welcome to set collecting. My strategy has been to buy some lots and then start filling in. I'm slowly finishing Topps BB sets back to 1961.
As far as raw or graded, I'm more concerned with the price and how the card looks. If I buy a graded card, I photo copy it in color and put the copy in my binder.
I work on one set at a time unless a deal pops up. I'm 9 cards short of a 1962 Topps BB set and will then start working on a 1963 set.
Good luck with whatever set you choose and have fun!
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2024, 10:33 PM
wdwfan wdwfan is offline
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1. Are there particular strategies you follow in building your sets?
I like to start by buying up some lots. I'll then go through and pull whatever I like/want/need then try and trade off any extras for ones I need. Or I'll group all the extras into lots/teams and sell (I realize not everyone likes to trade). But by doing this, I was able to put a NM set of 1958 Topps together for just over $500.

Secondly, a lot of people buy cards just to have them in the sets. Then try and upgrade later. I don't do that. Seems like a waste of time. I'd rather have an empty spot in my notebook than a card I'm not going to be proud of.



2. Do you build multiple sets at once, or does that make it too difficult and you focus on one at a time?
I try to do one, possibly 2 at a time. Otherwise, it gets too expensive. And you're spread out over multiple sets.



3. Do you prefer all raw, all graded or a combo and why?
I strictly collect raw. All cards. Nothing graded. I love putting them into notebooks and flipping through those notebooks. So everything from Mantle, Brooks RC, Nolan RC, Rose RC to the commons are in notebooks.



4. Finally, what is the best way to store sets (in-progress or completed) so that you can also enjoy seeing the cards?
I use notebooks and pages. I wait until I've got between 50-60 percent of the set to then place them into a notebook.
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2024, 07:40 PM
Kutcher55 Kutcher55 is offline
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Buy the full set first and upgrade. When you upgrade, consider buying another full set and swapping out the best cards. This is the most economical IMO because then you have two sets and can sell off one of them. You can do this 3/4/5 times although once you hit a certain level of condition it becomes harder. Lots can be good too. If you are committed to buying, upgrading and holding the set for an extended amount of time then I recommend this approach. For any set that I’m working on I keep what I call a “bullpen” of backup cards. When the bullpen gets too big and/or loaded up with too many duplicates I sell off lots that I think might be of interest. This keeps the bullpen from getting too unwieldy.

Be willing to take a loss sometimes as you go through the process. If you are a reasonably shrewd buyer you will win more transactions than you lose over time and it will improve the value of the set relative to your total cash outlay. The problem with buying sets and lots on line is that most sellers overstate the condition of what they are selling, even well meaning sellers can be guilty of this as it is human nature. So expect some of what you buy to be disappointing, get as many pics as you can, and celebrate those times you buy a lot that turns out to be NMT-MT as it can happen if you are patient enough and persevere.
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2024, 12:45 PM
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I've built out many sets over the years. I do not do so any more except for a few very, very rare ones where just finding a single card is a challenge.

I'd say the best advice is to buy the condition you ultimately want to own when it comes to mainstream sets, but also do not overpay. Most sets are commodities, not rarities, so you can hold out for cards in the condition you prefer at a price you can handle, and that is how I like to do it. When I built my 1971 Topps set, for example, I tried the buy in bulk and upgrade route, but I found it disappointing and expensive to keep getting crappy Mays and Clemente cards that I had to then turn over. Eventually, I culled through thousands of cards at shows to build it. I say get it right the first time. Now, if you happen to find a set that looks perfect for you, by all means buy and upgrade. Happened to me once with a 1973 Topps hockey set. Usually, not.

The other advice I have is that if you are chasing after a truly rare set, don't be a condition snob, because it will not go well. You may as well not even start if your plan is to build an N300 Mayo set in near mint. I am perpetually trying to build a set of Adam Hats premiums and my cards range from nearly perfect to barely intact, but the cards are so rare that I am lucky to find one a year, so I take them as they are found.




Ditto set of 1904 boxing cabinets:



Not the greatest condition but that's how it goes.
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Last edited by Exhibitman; 02-14-2024 at 12:50 PM.
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  #15  
Old 02-19-2024, 10:21 AM
Zach Wheat Zach Wheat is offline
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I am mainly a set collector. I have finished a number of pre-war and post-war sets. My general strategy is similar to others with a few tweaks.

1. Are there particular strategies you follow in building your sets?
Decide if you are going to complete a master set with variations or go for a set without variations. If you are a master set collector, you will probably learn more and discover variations others didn't notice. After that step, I buy lots in bulk and look to re-sell the duplicates. I have always tried to buy star cards or high # cards as early as possible.

2. Do you build multiple sets at once, or does that make it too difficult and you focus on one at a time?

I build a couple sets at the same time, usually one pre-war and another post-war. Keep your focus and know which key cards you need and at what price ranges for each grade.

3. Do you prefer all raw, all graded or a combo and why?

I prefer raw but the investment nature of the key cards and various stars has made it preferable to have key cards graded.

4. Finally, what is the best way to store sets (in-progress or completed) so that you can also enjoy seeing the cards?

I prefer to store in binders with cards in penny sleeves. However I have shifted to penny sleeves with top loaders, due to investment nature of the cards. I prefer top loaders over card savers because the bottom corners tend to get dinged when you put them in if you aren't careful. With binders it is easy to flip through the various pages and identify variations, etc.

Good luck!
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