If you were to start a vintage collection ...

[wdwfan]

Been tossing the idea around of getting a nice Jackie, Ted Williams or bigger name card like that. And I now have some money from a recent card show that I can spend on a card like this. But I'm not sure where to start.

If you were to start a vintage collection with a Jackie, Mays, Mantle, Williams, Aaron type card and NOT break the bank, where would you start? I'm talking $500 or less. I prefer raw in Ex-Mt to NM condition, but I wouldn't be against a graded card since it's a bigger name.

Let me know what you'd start with. Or if you were to go a different direction, which direction would you go? Just trying to start a nice conversation and figure out which way I want to go. I'd like to get a nice centerpiece to a vintage collection in the form of one of the big names (Williams, Mays, Aaron, Mantle, Jackie).

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

Been tossing the idea around of getting a nice Jackie, Ted Williams or bigger name card like that. And I now have some money from a recent card show that I can spend on a card like this. But I'm not sure where to start.

If you were to start a vintage collection with a Jackie, Mays, Mantle, Williams, Aaron type card and NOT break the bank, where would you start? I'm talking $500 or less. Not graded (I don't deal in anything graded) but in nice Ex-Mt to NM type condition raw.

Let me know what you'd start with. Or if you were to go a different direction, which direction would you go? Just trying to start a nice conversation and figure out which way I want to go. I'd like to get a nice centerpiece to a vintage collection in the form of one of the big names (Williams, Mays, Aaron, Mantle, Jackie).

Emlily, you can get several higher end Ted Williams from the 59 Fleer set in that price range. There are several nice Ted Williams cards in the set to choose from.

[wdwfan]

Hey Ben, thanks for the tip. I didn't know about that set, but I will check it out. Maybe a set I decide to chase depending on who all is in it, etc. I knew about Topps, but I didn't think Fleer started until 1960. So I learned something new. I'd prefer, though, something from their playing days.

Originally Posted by bnorth

Emlily, you can get several higher end Ted Williams from the 59 Fleer set in that price range. There are several nice Ted Williams cards in the set to choose from.

[Eric72]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

Been tossing the idea around of getting a nice Jackie, Ted Williams or bigger name card like that. And I now have some money from a recent card show that I can spend on a card like this. But I'm not sure where to start.

If you were to start a vintage collection with a Jackie, Mays, Mantle, Williams, Aaron type card and NOT break the bank, where would you start? I'm talking $500 or less. I prefer raw in Ex-Mt to NM condition, but I wouldn't be against a graded card since it's a bigger name.

Let me know what you'd start with. Or if you were to go a different direction, which direction would you go? Just trying to start a nice conversation and figure out which way I want to go. I'd like to get a nice centerpiece to a vintage collection in the form of one of the big names (Williams, Mays, Aaron, Mantle, Jackie).

1958 Topps Mickey Mantle All-Star. At $500, you can get one in Near Mint.

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

Hey Ben, thanks for the tip. I didn't know about that set, but I will check it out. Maybe a set I decide to chase depending on who all is in it, etc. I knew about Topps, but I didn't think Fleer started until 1960. So I learned something new. I'd prefer, though, something from their playing days.

The 59 Fleer set is a 80 card set of just Ted Williams cards. It is a very cool set. I have built a low grade raw set and a NrMint+ complete graded set over the years.
Ted was still playing in 59 so they are from his playing days.

[raulus]

Can’t speak to all of the players you’re looking at specifically, but I can tell you that one strategy for Mays is to focus on his later playing years. With some years the print runs were higher and/or the print quality was better, or they are just plain underloved, so the prices aren’t so outrageous.

For Mays, Topps 67-69, or 72 tend to be your best bets.

Another option is to pick a non mainstream issue with large print runs that you enjoy visually. For Mays, this might include stuff like:

1955 All American Sports Club
1955 Golden Stamps
1958 Hires Root Beer
1960 Armour Coins
1961 Chemstrand
1961 Nu-Card Baseball Scoops
Any of the various Topps Stamps issues
Pick an exhibit or coin from any of the issuers during the 60s or 70s
Any of the various team issues from the 60s or 70s
1967 Topps Who Am I?
1968 Topps Game
Any of the Topps Supers Issues
Any of the Milton Bradley issues
Any of the Kellogg’s Issues

Or even 1963 Fleer!

And if you’re willing to dip into the all star, league leader, or multiplayer cards then often those aren’t difficult to find at your desired price and quality either.

[skelly423]

If you're looking for Jackie or a Williams, a nice Exhibit is probably the best option from their playing days that meets your budget/grade criteria. Base playing-days Topps cards in EX+ grade will likely exceed your budget limits. There are plenty of late career Aaron and Mays cards that would fit the bill; personally I'm a fan of the 1972 Topps design, and they're within your budget up to PSA 8 condition. 1964 Topps Giants would be a great choice for Mays, Aaron and Mantle.

[mrmopar]

I am guessing a top shape card is no longer in the $500 range, but I favor the 1956 Topps set and specifically, the Robinson card. Been one of my all-time favorites since I was a kid. Really, any of the players from that set is nice, but that is Robinson's final card as well.

Scan borrowed from ebay...

[gonefishin]

Decide what direction you want to collect; players, sets, teams, etc. Once, you have decided that, you can then start focusing your efforts. The early Bowman sets are cheaper to obtain (generally) than Topps. A small set to start would be the 48 Bowman, however it does contain a couple of rookie cards that are getting pretty high in price. You can still obtain them in average condition without breaking the bank. The 59 Fleer Ted Williams and the 63 Fleer sets are also relatively small, abundant, and still afforadable.

[Exhibitman]

Look at Exhibits. For $500, you could get very nice examples of Mays, Aaron, Williams and perhaps a Mantle and probably have enough left for a hamburger. No fries, though.

[Peter_Spaeth]

I think for around 500 you could probably get PSA 6s of both Mays and Aaron in 1965 Topps. Among my favorite cards ever.

[ALR-bishop]

I do not follow graded card prices to know the cost but agree with Peter that the 65 Mays and Aaron are very nice cards

[jsfriedm]

I think if you're smart with your buying, you might be able to shoot a bit higher than some people are suggesting. For example, if you were willing to go for a PSA 4s, I think you could get both a 1956 Topps Mays and a 1957 Topps Ted Williams. If you wanted to put it all into one card, you might be able to get a PSA 5 1956 Mays or Aaron, maybe a PSA 5 1955 Ted Williams (one of my favorite cards).

[wdwfan]

I've never dealt with graded and have ZERO graded cards. Contemplating maybe buying my first one or 2. Was looking at 1 that was a PSA 5, and there's comps from $80 all the way to $120. So frustrating. A 5 is a 5. So they should run about the same price as one another (like modern cards that are the same). Hopefully finding comps aren't that hard for all PSA cards if I decide to go that route.

Originally Posted by jsfriedm

I think if you're smart with your buying, you might be able to shoot a bit higher than some people are suggesting. For example, if you were willing to go for a PSA 4s, I think you could get both a 1956 Topps Mays and a 1957 Topps Ted Williams. If you wanted to put it all into one card, you might be able to get a PSA 5 1956 Mays or Aaron, maybe a PSA 5 1955 Ted Williams (one of my favorite cards).

[JollyElm]

Comps really mean nothing, unfortunately. Whatever the lowest priced card on eBay (or other venues) is for the condition or number grade you're specifically looking for becomes the de facto market price of said card if you want to buy it right now.*

It sucks, but it's the reality for all of us.



*Some exceptions do apply, of course.

[todeen]

I would buy a 1955 Bowman. That set is not extremely popular and $500 used to get you a decent card. It's also early in their career, which I would prefer above a 1960s card. Another that was already suggested is 1958 All Star Mantle. That is my favorite Mantle card by a country mile.

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[Bigdaddy]

Personally, if I was just starting out, I'd stick to Topps' flagship issues. Nothing wrong with Bowman, Fleer, Exhibits, etc, but Topps cards from those years are the standard.

I like the 1958 Mick AS, 1955 Ted Williams and 1965 Mick and Willie cards mentioned above. Find one that is well centered with good registration (printing is sharp). I'd also add the 1962 Aaron and Mays cards. If you are looking for something a little different, then $500 would net you a very nice 1962 Manager's Dream (Mick and Willie) or a 1957 Dodgers' Sluggers (Furillo, Hodges, Campy and Snider).

When looking at comps, remember that all cards with the same grade are not created equal, especially as it pertains to eye appeal. Find something that is pleasing to your eyes.

And one more thing - If I was not comfortable identifying altered (trimmed, colored, etc) cards from a photo, then I would only buy graded cards if buying on Ebay, and from one of the big TPGs - PSA, SCG, CSG or BVG. If in person, I'd inspect both the card and the dealer. Don't buy anything from Craigslist or FB marketplace.

[jchcollins]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

A 5 is a 5. So they should run about the same price as one another (like modern cards that are the same).

Not necessarily true for vintage. Cards with the same technical grade can have wide variation in eye appeal. Using the example of a PSA 5, a perfectly centered card with corner touches and minor surface problems could get a 5 and present fantastically, whereas a card that’s otherwise NM range could be centered 80/20 and be lowered to “only” a 5 based just on the centering. Depending on individual collector preferences, the desirability gap between those two cards in the same grade could vary widely.

If you want to start a vintage collection with mainstream Topps issues of some of those marquee players, my advice would be to just pick nice looking examples from your favorite set designs. They will vary in price depending on your condition preferences. My favorite postwar sets for Topps are 1956, 1963, 1965, 1967, and 1972 - among others. Good luck!


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[Chris Counts]

I buy the best Mays card I could find, preferably an early one. As far as I'm concerned, he's the most undervalued out of the group of names you mentioned. I paid far less than $500 for this one last week ...

[ALR-bishop]

Nice card Chris

[Gr8Beldini]

At recent Hofstra Long Island show, saw an SGC VG/EX 1957 Topps Ted Williams for low $200's (think $225). The card was centered perfectly and the color was REALLY good (the color on that card is usually dull and drab - often looks like a black and white photo). Seller would have probably accepted $200. I'd look for things like this... inexpensive all-time greats in mid grade PSA/SGC holders with good eye appeal. It's out there. Fun looking for it.

[BobC]

Article in today's Sports Collectors Daily on putting together a great vintage collection.

https://www.sportscollectorsdaily.co...863ed-83286472

[wdwfan]

Thanks for the link. Will check it out. I like how it says slow and steady. Isn't that the truth? Took me 6 months I believe to finish my first 1958 Topps set. I thought I'd never finish the thing. Glad I got it done and was happy with the oucome.

Originally Posted by BobC

Article in today's Sports Collectors Daily on putting together a great vintage collection.

https://www.sportscollectorsdaily.co...863ed-83286472

[BobC]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

Thanks for the link. Will check it out. I like how it says slow and steady. Isn't that the truth? Took me 6 months I believe to finish my first 1958 Topps set. I thought I'd never finish the thing. Glad I got it done and was happy with the oucome.

Only real way to do it. Have sets I've been working on, off and on, for decades now. Probably never finish some because of the now ridiculous prices being paid for many items, but I've always found more pleasure in the hunt anyway. Good luck and happy collecting.

[packs]

You could get a real nice 1963 Fleer Willie Mays for $500.

My favorite star card on a budget is the 1961 Mantle. You could get a solid one for your budget.

[wdwfan]

Decades? That's nuts. As I said, I took l6-8 months, and I thought I'd never finish. I couldn't imagine it take a year or 2 years. And a decade? I'd give up on it.

Originally Posted by BobC

Only real way to do it. Have sets I've been working on, off and on, for decades now. Probably never finish some because of the now ridiculous prices being paid for many items, but I've always found more pleasure in the hunt anyway. Good luck and happy collecting.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by wdwfan

Decades? That's nuts. As I said, I took l6-8 months, and I thought I'd never finish. I couldn't imagine it take a year or 2 years. And a decade? I'd give up on it.

LOL

We're grown men collecting little pieces of cardboard. Most people think we're already nuts just for doing that.

I don't actively pursue sets, I am more passive in my collecting technique and over the years have picked up cards when I would come across them at reasonable prices, in reasonable condition. I have never solely focused on collecting just a set or two at a time, and look for things as they may turn up. Also, some sets have cards that turn out to be unbelievably rare, and that never come up for sale. So in those cases, you really have to be patient, and occasionally that patience needs to be over a very, very long time. Also, I'm talking mostly about pre-war card sets in this case.

But even if you're talking post-war sets, and you're on some kind of a budget as in your case with the questions of where to start with just $500, when you say you want to start a "collection", I think most people would assume that means multiple sets and/or players, not just a single set or only a couple individual player cards. So, lets say one of your collection goals is to eventually have a collection of Topps sets for a particular run of years. You start out working on one year, sticking to your budget, and then suddenly come upon a reasonable deal for a card(s) in another Topps set you hadn't really started on yet. Do you just pass on it because it isn't necessarily the Topps set you were working on at that moment, or do you grab the opportunity when it presents itself, not knowing if you'll be able to get such a similar deal in the future when you do finally get around to avidly collecting that other set? But if you do grab that deal, now you may delay finishing the original Topps set you were working on, and who knows when you may then get back to work on the other Topps set you grabbed the deal on.

I also understand how for some people they can't stand to not have a completed set of something, and if it looks like they can't quickly complete it, will often simply abandon the project altogether after a relatively short period of time. You are obviously one of those kinds of people, based on your comments. Nothing at all wrong with that, collect what you like, how you like. I enjoy the hunt for cards myself. Actually completing a set is almost anti-climactic to me.

[Exhibitman]

Another approach would be to run the table with later cards. For $500 you could get a really nice run of 1970s cards of all time greats