Paying for the card, not the holder?

[Throttlesteer]

We've all heard the saying, "Buy the card, not the holder". Most of us look for cards with superior eye appeal for the grade. Let's face it, there's a ton of variability within numeric grades, especially in the low-mid range stuff. But, I wonder if people also pay for the card, completely minimizing the consideration of the holder.

I ask because it seems many sellers are pricing their graded cards based on the first-glance appearance and not the actual numeric grade. I'm willing to pay a premium for a well-centered card with exceptionally high visual appeal for the grade. But, I'm not willing to pay for a 6 when the card still grades a 4. I'm also not willing to pay a huge premium for a "sharp" or "crisp" Authentic altered card over a numerically graded one.

What is your rule of thumb in this space?

[Leon]

Originally Posted by Throttlesteer

We've all heard the saying, "Buy the card, not the holder". Most of us look for cards with superior eye appeal for the grade. Let's face it, there's a ton of variability within numeric grades, especially in the low-mid range stuff. But, I wonder if people also pay for the card, completely minimizing the consideration of the holder.

I ask because it seems many sellers are pricing their graded cards based on the first-glance appearance and not the actual numeric grade. I'm willing to pay a premium for a well-centered card with exceptionally high visual appeal for the grade. But, I'm not willing to pay for a 6 when the card still grades a 4. I'm also not willing to pay a huge premium for a "sharp" or "crisp" Authentic altered card over a numerically graded one.

What is your rule of thumb in this space?

I always buy the card and not the holder. I don't care what a 6 went for....if the 3 looks better I will pay that or more. I am not a registry guy though

[phikappapsi]

I'm admittedly all over the place on this. Depends on every single card. how much I want it. how rare it is; etc. I have zero steadfast rules about price vs grade; which I guess means I value grades very little; but still go after the sharpest version of whatever I can afford - which also generally leads to higher grade stuff (albeit on less popular issues)

[hcv123]

For rare stuff - the holder it's in matters A LOT less to me although has helped me at times because imho PSA actually under-grades certain things horribly.

For more common cards I echo your sentiment - I have no problem paying a premium for an exceptional looking card for its numeric grade, but will not pay for the next grade up because if I am patient I theoretically could find one of those "nice" for its grade as well if I wanted to spend more.

The "A" is a really interesting question. I was just thinking about this yesterday. There is a high profile card listed for sale that is an "A". Outside of the fact that it is likely trimmed, it is a fantastic looking card. I took a look at the low grades of the same card for sale/sold. Need to get to like a "5" level to find a card visually as nice - a 5 is about 4-5X the price that is being asked for the "A". It is tempting, but I am dissuaded largely by how shunned these are in the marketplace. I looked at the 1's and 2's and 3's and wouldn't consider buying them at all because of how visually poor they are. I don't ignore the marketplace when making decisions - so as tempting as it is (and aesthetically incredibly more pleasing than the lower graded copies), I don't buy "A" cards.

[NiceDocter]

I have never bought "A" cards but have been tempted..... I certainly have some cards in my collection that have been altered somewhere along the line but not by me. What about the grading of cards that used to be in the screwdown holders getting an A even though they are otherwise just fine? To me, that would make a good example of a card I could easily live with.....

[bobbyw8469]

I have had "A" cards get graded by other graders. No doctoring. Just cracking out and resubmitting. Graders can get it wrong.

[MattyC]

I agree with Leon.

I've long been a believer in card over holder and the individual's eye trumping what some grader at a TPG says. So I have no problem paying say 5 money for a 1 or 2 if the card looks the part. In such cases it's usually a special freak specimen in question so it all comes down to the specific card.

[riggs336]

Originally Posted by bobbyw8469

I have had "A" cards get graded by other graders. No doctoring. Just cracking out and resubmitting. Graders can get it wrong.

I would guess that is the outcome the buyer who paid $26000+ for this grade A Nagurski is hoping for.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-Nation...rdt=true&rt=nc

[bobbyw8469]

Originally Posted by riggs336

I would guess that is the outcome the buyer who paid $26000+ for this grade A Nagurski is hoping for.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1935-Nation...rdt=true&rt=nc

That card doesn't look trimmed to me, but what do I know.

[vthobby]

looks pretty funky, the corner wear does not match the edges, whole lower left area stands out but what the heck do I know?

Peace, Mike

[perezfan]

I would guess it's the bottom border that was deemed trimmed.

[glynparson]

Originally Posted by bobbyw8469

That card doesn't look trimmed to me, but what do I know.

Then I sure as hell hope you haven’t been bitching about the tpgs missing the micro trim jobs that are actually well done.

[bobbyw8469]

Originally Posted by glynparson

Then I sure as hell hope you haven’t been bitching about the tpgs missing the micro trim jobs that are actually well done.

I beg your pardon?? Do you have me confused for another member?

[AnkurJ]

Here’s one I bought recently that fits the bill. It crossed at PSA as a 1 which was expected. The eye appeal is very sharp!

[Tyruscobb]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PRICE-1...cAAOSwLDZeoOAz

I always buy the holder when the seller does not accurately list the card and there is the opportunity to make a no risk profit - even if it is just a small profit. This happens more often than you would think. For example, I recently purchased this 1960 Topps Hank Aaron for a mere $70.00.

Notice that the listing says it was a BVG 4. However, the holder indicates it is a 5 (and it was). I already had this card and didn’t need another one. But, couldn’t pass up the opportunity to earn some Ebay bucks and free money when I flip the card. Win-win.

To answer the main question: I’m primarily a collector and do not worry too much about the holder’s grade. My rule of thumb is to not pay more than the next grade up’s price. So, I’m willing to pay a middle of the road 5’s price for a superior looking 4. My two cents.

[steve B]

Originally Posted by perezfan

I would guess it's the bottom border that was deemed trimmed.

The top and bottom looked bad with a quick look at the front. Then I looked at the back..... I think all four sides are trimmed.

[2dueces]

I could care less about the grade. I have 1’s that look like 7’s and 5’s with a undetectable surface wrinkle that looks like a 10. I have 1’s with back damage ( I could care less about the back ) that are razor sharp that looks like 9’s so yes buy the card if you like it.
One other thing, TRIAPD

The Registry Is A Powerful Drug.

[drcy]

Wide variance in 1s.

The answer is the condition grade is an assessment of everything about the card. As Old Judges with good versus bad image qualities show, grade doesn't cover everything.

[perezfan]

Originally Posted by drcy

Wide variance in 1s.

The answer is the condition grade is an assessment of everything about the card. As Old Judges with good versus bad image qualities show, grade doesn't cover everything.

Good example... And sometimes it doesn't cover anything (that a collector would care about).