Need your opinion on grading(new question on page 3)

[kamikidEFFL]

Hey guys I recently purchase a card that is a SGC 70 5.5. I am happy with that grade but I prefer to have it graded by PSA. Now I am asking should I break te card out of the case and send it in or send it in the case as a crossover? I will be doing this next week at the card show when PSA is there. Your thoughts be greatly appreciated. I know people are not a fan of PSA but all my 34 goudey's n 38's are PSA so I want to keep it that way. Please any input is much appreciated.

[bobbyw8469]

Need to see a scan.

[kamikidEFFL]

I don't have the card yet but this is the card. I can put better photos up when it comes in.

[sebie43]

looks so pretty in that black slab.

[I Only Smoke 4 the Cards]

Just do the cross over. There have been countless stories of people who cracked the slab and then were upset with the result.

[kamikidEFFL]

Yea I was thinking of just doing the cross over. But like to get people's thoughts. I do like the black background but my whole set I plan to do is in psa an I'm pretty adamant about it

[I Only Smoke 4 the Cards]

Originally Posted by kamikidEFFL

Yea I was thinking of just doing the cross over. But like to get people's thoughts. I do like the black background but my whole set I plan to do is in psa an I'm pretty adamant about it

I understand wanting uniformity.

[T206Collector]

I have been trying to break myself of the uniformity issue as I have been putting together my 1933 Goudey set. I have about 80 graded thus far, and about 60% are PSA graded. I don't like being forced to collect only SGC or PSA when I find one I like on ebay -- and I certainly do not want to pay $8+S/H to keep them all in one holder or the other. I find that a measure of uniformity can be achieved in spite of the red vs. green outlined flip by scanning the PSA cards with a black background. Sure, the frosting is different, but the overall look is pretty consistent from card to card.

[auggiedoggy]

Originally Posted by I Only Smoke 4 the Cards

Just do the cross over. There have been countless stories of people who cracked the slab and then were upset with the result.

Hard to say from the images provided but I'm not sure if PSA would grade this a 5.5. Best move is to submit as a crossover.

[kamikidEFFL]

I am anal when it comes to having uniformity haha. I prefer to have one company grade all my cards. It won't stop me from buying a card that's graded SGC or anything. I just wanted to hear people's thoughts about crossover or breaking the slab but most people here lean towards crossover. That's what I believe I will do but I like to hear other people's feedback.

[LKeeler]

My two cents from recent experience of getting burned: cracking and submitting raw is a bad deal if you are needing the card to come back in a PSA 5 or 5.5 slab. There just seems to be too much inconsistency in grading and is too risky if you are needing it in a certain grade. Do your crossover and set your minimum grade and see what happens. Good luck!

[glchen]

I think you need to factor in your grading costs also. For example, if that card cost you $100, but the grading fee is $20, then it might have been better to buy that card for the same grade in PSA 5.5 if you could have gotten it for $120 or less. Larger scans will help, but you also should think of minimum grade. For example, if you do the crossover whether you would need PSA 5 or 5.5. My guess w/o seeing bigger scans is that you will likely be able to get a PSA 5 for that card, but a 5.5 may be more difficult. That is, if you do a straight crossover w/ a minimum grade of 5, you will likely get a the 5. If you specify a minimum grade of 5.5, it will likely be rejected. If you crack out the card, you will have a better chance to get the 5.5, but you will also have more of a chance that the card will come in at a lower grade the 5. The reason behind this is that if PSA is able to see the entire card out of the slab, they may find more things they like (or don't like), which can affect the grade going up or down.

[4815162342]

Originally Posted by glchen

I think you need to factor in your grading costs also. For example, if that card cost you $100, but the grading fee is $20, then it might have been better to buy that card for the same grade in PSA 5.5 if you could have gotten it for $120 or less. ...

I was thinking the same thing. With a rare set it might make sense to buy raw or SGC and crossover, but with a relatively easy-to-find set it makes more sense to just buy cards already graded by PSA and skip the hassle.

[kamikidEFFL]

Originally Posted by glchen

I think you need to factor in your grading costs also. For example, if that card cost you $100, but the grading fee is $20, then it might have been better to buy that card for the same grade in PSA 5.5 if you could have gotten it for $120 or less. Larger scans will help, but you also should think of minimum grade. For example, if you do the crossover whether you would need PSA 5 or 5.5. My guess w/o seeing bigger scans is that you will likely be able to get a PSA 5 for that card, but a 5.5 may be more difficult. That is, if you do a straight crossover w/ a minimum grade of 5, you will likely get a the 5. If you specify a minimum grade of 5.5, it will likely be rejected. If you crack out the card, you will have a better chance to get the 5.5, but you will also have more of a chance that the card will come in at a lower grade the 5. The reason behind this is that if PSA is able to see the entire card out of the slab, they may find more things they like (or don't like), which can affect the grade going up or down.

I agree I got the card for a very reasonable price including the crossover fee. So the money I have now into the card I feel very comfortable with. Even if it comes back as a 5 I can still feel good where I bought the card. I don't want to break the case just because with my luck the card could come back with a 4 and then I would be losing money but a 5 or 5.5 I am right where I need to be on it and if it happen to go to a 6 then even better but very unlikely. I think I am going to take a shot at crossing it over. Thanks for your input though its much appreciated.

[Leon]

Originally Posted by LKeeler

........ There just seems to be too much inconsistency in grading and is too risky if you are needing it in a certain grade. Do your crossover and set your minimum grade and see what happens. Good luck!

For the most part I would only try it this way too. I would hate to be burned in going from a 5 to an AUT ....

[danmckee]

A very good friend of mine had a 1955 Killebrew Rookie. It looked gemmy to my naked eye, I did not loop it.

1st submission: VG-EX 4

2nd submission: EX 5

3rd submission: Authentic evidence of trimming

4th submission: MINT 9


I begged him to submit it just 1 more time but he wouldn't

You have to remember that with some large companies you will have different graders looking at your card and as someone pointed out in 1 of the threads, we are all human and not perfect.

[MyGuyTy]

Originally Posted by danmckee

A very good friend of mine had a 1955 Killebrew Rookie. It looked gemmy to my naked eye, I did not loop it.

1st submission: VG-EX 4

2nd submission: EX 5

3rd submission: Authentic evidence of trimming

4th submission: MINT 9


I begged him to submit it just 1 more time but he wouldn't

You have to remember that with some large companies you will have different graders looking at your card and as someone pointed out in 1 of the threads, we are all human and not perfect.

Holy smokes, "Authentic evidence of trimming" to a Mint 9?

[I Only Smoke 4 the Cards]

Originally Posted by danmckee

A very good friend of mine had a 1955 Killebrew Rookie. It looked gemmy to my naked eye, I did not loop it.



1st submission: VG-EX 4



2nd submission: EX 5



3rd submission: Authentic evidence of trimming



4th submission: MINT 9





I begged him to submit it just 1 more time but he wouldn't



You have to remember that with some large companies you will have different graders looking at your card and as someone pointed out in 1 of the threads, we are all human and not perfect.

That is scary

[sebie43]

What company was grading those?

[Centauri]

I am a noob to the world of grading - when you all are referring to a "crossover", does that mean you submit it, and if they match the grade they reslab it, otherwise they just send it back unchanged?

I am working the T205 set, and am planning to have it all PSA, which means some of my SGC's will be regraded. I am interested in how the process works.

[4815162342]

Originally Posted by Centauri

I am a noob to the world of grading - when you all are referring to a "crossover", does that mean you submit it, and if they match the grade they reslab it, otherwise they just send it back unchanged?

I am working the T205 set, and am planning to have it all PSA, which means some of my SGC's will be regraded. I am interested in how the process works.

Crossover means to submit a card graded by one TPG (Third Party Grader) to another TPG. You are given the option to either accept the grade given or ask for a minimum grade. For the latter option, if the card is deemed to not meet the minimum grade, it's returned in its original slab.

[Centauri]

thx.

[kamikidEFFL]

Wow trimmed to a 9 that's insane. As for my card I'll know better when it's in my hand where it should grade. I plan on doing a crossover n keeping it either as a 5.5 SGC or psa 5 or above.

[kamikidEFFL]

If i was to trade my 5.5 SGC for a PSA 6 Gehringer what type of money would I have to give up you think to upgrade it? This is another possibility for this weekends show. I mean they are so close in grade I just not sure what would be a reasonable price. You can't do a straight up trade thats for sure. Any input be greatly appreciated