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#1
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Why aren’t slabs more resistant to scratching/cracking/breaking?
The title says it all. Grading companies have improved visuals, apps, etc, but the slab material hasn’t improved. I have seen stories of slabs being damaged over the years, while I cracked a slab once by accidentally dropping it on a table
The only exception is Beckett. You could survived Armageddon by building a bunker of Beckett slabs |
#2
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...to increase their odds of your wanting to resubmit for more profit because of some scratches that won't buff out? They don't see it as a problem that needs fixing.
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#3
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Do some people use those grading bag sleeves those plastic Mylar bags that go around their slabs to protect them still? I always thought that was a good idea. Some people are just careless with the way they handle their slabs.
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#4
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because that would cost them $$$$$$$...and they only want to make $$$$$.
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#5
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That is why we need a slab to protect the slab we are using to protect the slab that is protecting the slab that is protecting the original slab that contains our precious card.
Or you could just order your own higher grade PSA slabs made to exact specifications from one of many suppliers in China. |
#6
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I use them still for the few slabs I do have. I’ve seen some slabs scratched to hell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#7
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There are sleeves for slabs. Most AHs send the slabs in those sleeves. I used to discard the sleeves but now I keep the slabs in the sleeves but it makes for sloppy storage.
now say this 5x quickly - slabbers sleeving slabs sloppily
__________________
fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#8
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There are only a few materials that are clear, inexpensive, easily formed, and light.
All of them are somewhat easily scratched. |
#9
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Yup. So use the sleeves, there are some great ones out there. Or if you buy a slab that has scratches, most can be greatly improved with Novus 2.
__________________
My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ He is available to do custom drawings in graphite, charcoal and other media. He also sells some of his works as note cards/greeting cards on Etsy under JamesSpaethArt. |
#10
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I have all my graded cards in sleeves. And I'm going to tell you the best sleeve company available (I have no relationship with them) is called "Superior Fit Innovations", based out of British Columbia. Check out their website in the link, I can firmly attest that they are great!
"Superior Fit Innovations" https://www.superiorfitsleeves.com |
#11
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I feel like this same argument could be made for modern vehicle headlights.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#12
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LOL, and why is it almost always just the drivers side headlight?
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#13
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PSA and SGC use Crystal Polystyrene, it's inexpensive and not very durable.
Beckett uses (or at least used to)Poly Carbonate, more expensive but its super durable in comparison. |
#14
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Quote:
__________________
My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ He is available to do custom drawings in graphite, charcoal and other media. He also sells some of his works as note cards/greeting cards on Etsy under JamesSpaethArt. |
#15
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It's pretty easy to remove scratches from a slab using some polish. Although I don't know how the purists would feel about that? Probably a big no-no! Might get your name and pics posted somewhere with the word "FRAUDSTER" plastered next to it!
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
#16
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What kind of polish do you use? I used some white toothpaste that had baking soda in it and rubbed it on with a microfiber cloth and worked pretty well.
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#17
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The only acceptable method is soaking them in virgin spring water from Icelandic glaciers.
__________________
Working Sets: Baseball- T206 SLers - Virginia League (-1) 1952 Topps - low numbers (-1) 1954 Bowman (-3) 1964 Topps Giants auto'd (-2) |
#18
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I bought a 16ox bottle of that for $8.99 off the internet. When it arrived I looked at the ingredient list. It said Source: Houston TX municipal water.
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#19
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Not sure. I think maybe Mcguire's? It's for my car. Bought it at an auto parts store. Any polish should work though. If it says it's for headlights, that's probably ideal?
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
#20
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Novus Plastic Polish No. 2 works well in my experience. PSA generally easier to clean up than SGC.
__________________
My avatar is a sketch by my son who is an art school graduate. Some of his sketches and paintings are at https://www.jamesspaethartwork.com/ He is available to do custom drawings in graphite, charcoal and other media. He also sells some of his works as note cards/greeting cards on Etsy under JamesSpaethArt. |
#21
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I would love to know how you found that out? I've made some brief attempts at it, but figured it would be closely held as a trade secret so I didn't put much effort into it. |
#22
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Kinda off topic but how close are we to being able to easily 3D print our own PSA slabs at home? I know nothing about 3D printing so curious.
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#23
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If the slab is simply scratched (or needs cleaning) and isn't a complete disaster the Novus 3 Step process will improve the aesthetics considerably. https://novuspolish.com/products/2-o...tic-polish-kit
__________________
Lonnie Nagel T206 : 174/520 : 33.5% |
#24
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Assuming you'd want to be able to see through it, that's not happening
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If it's not perfectly centered, I probably don't want it. |
#25
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LOL, they can 3D print camera lenses.
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#26
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I thought you were kidding, but apparently not: https://formlabs.com/blog/creating-c...eolithography/
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#27
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Beat me to it.
It's not simple, and 3d printing at the hobby/homeowner level isn't fast, but it does do some amazing things. |
#28
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This stuff is fantastic for cleaning light scratches and sometimes worse out of slabs:
As to the question on the whole, I don't think it's so much that the graders don't use durable materials, it's just that people are careless as hell with their slabs. Easily one of my hobby pet peeves, when I buy something that looks good in the pic on eBay, but then a week later the slab arrives looking like someone used it as a cutting board in their kitchen. Invest in some Superior Fit sleeves, people. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Prewar, Bowman & Topps Cubs team endeavors. Last edited by jchcollins; 02-05-2024 at 11:02 AM. |
#29
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I was in plastics...
And this statement is partially correct
Quote:
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#30
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Quote:
Quote:
Are you guys talking about applying chemicals to a slab? Is that altering the slab? Isn't that a bad thing? That's a chemical being applied to the plastic that houses the card - NOOOOOO!!!! Hey, I'm just kidding!!!
__________________
fr3d c0wl3s - always looking for OJs and other 19th century stuff. PM or email me if you have something cool you're looking to find a new home for. |
#31
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Novus
This is what I use.
As for why the plastics aren't more scratch-proof? The answer to these type questions is usually "money". Quote:
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Leon Luckey |
#32
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About two minutes with an FTIR and you would know. Easy peasy.
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#33
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So you have access to an FTIR machine? Lots of questions out there that could be answered. The stamp guys are using xrf and sometimes one other, But the sample area isn't usually big enough to get info without having to wreck an already damaged stamp as a reference (Like to have the data for the paper so it can be backed out of the overall stamp leaving the spectrum for the ink.) |
#34
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1. Crack card out of slab.
2. Throw away slab. 3. No more scratches on slab. 4. Enjoy card. That's my method, though I acknowledge it's not for everyone. Otherwise, I agree Meguiars is good on slabs, I also use that for refinishing guitars.
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Last edited by Bliggity; 02-08-2024 at 06:49 AM. |
#35
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Quote:
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#36
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Like "the plates wore out too fast because the pigment was rust" Xref says..... no iron present. And by the way brown, red brown and dark brown are chemically identical..... I wouldn't mind seeing that sort of thing applied to maybe brown/black Lenox, or Blue Old mill. I can make some guesses about the paper composition, but things were weird back around 1910. Lots of technology changes both in papers and inks. |
#37
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I don't care that they scratch or break.
I just want them to be made with a UV blocker....
__________________
Collecting Federal League (1914-1915) H804 Victorian Trade Cards N48 & N508 Virginia Brights/Dixie/Sub Rosa NY Highlanders & Fed League Signatures ....and Japanese Menko Baseball Cards https://japanesemenkoarchive.blogspot.com/ |
#38
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Many of the magnetic cases (UltraPro, ProMold) do have UV protection and that is good, but you can always see at least a light film on the cases and junk sometimes from that if you hold them in a certain light. Again my guess is that PSA, et al. haven't found a way yet to make that suit their budget. The plastic that UltraPro uses is slightly thicker and would seem to be of better quality.
__________________
Postwar stars & HOF'ers. Prewar, Bowman & Topps Cubs team endeavors. Last edited by jchcollins; 02-09-2024 at 06:50 AM. |
#39
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Polycarbonate blocks essentially all UV we would be concerned with.
Polystyrene blocks about 98% So both are effective UV blocking materials. Even toploaders block some UV, although the older ones are readily damaged by it they do protect the contents. |
#40
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Quote:
__________________
Collecting Federal League (1914-1915) H804 Victorian Trade Cards N48 & N508 Virginia Brights/Dixie/Sub Rosa NY Highlanders & Fed League Signatures ....and Japanese Menko Baseball Cards https://japanesemenkoarchive.blogspot.com/ |
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