O/t - Safes

[ZiggerZagger]

Having explored this topic as a complete novice in the past year and coming out of it much wiser, I'd throw in a few key tidbits:

--If you want more than to keep out nosy neighborhood kids, then do NOT buy anything rated as a RSC (Residential Security Container) which is anything from Costco/Walmart/etc. or labeled as a 'Gun Safe'. You need a "Vault".

--Any determined individual with a prybar will have nearly any Safe open within 60 seconds. (Check out YouTube for examples if you don't want to sleep well at night...)

--Layering of security measures is key, with a conventional Alarm/Motion/Camera system as well as concealment both effective layers of security in addition to the Safe itself.

--Best rule of thumb is to invest in Steel -- Use your $$$ to buy as thick of steel gauge for the body and door of the safe as possible. This is all that truly provides resilience to an attack. This also necessarily increases the weight of the safe. A decent Vault is going to be 1000 lbs plus. Anything less will fall under an RSC definition, typically.

--I would strongly recommend enlisting a local safe/security company who specializes in this area of work.

--Be sure to bolt the Safe to your foundation/floor once mounted. All Safes of even modest size have pre-drilled holes in the bottom, and not bolting it down will allow the Safe to be tipped and attacked from the side, where the Body is typically much thinner gauge steel than the Door.

--If the collection is too valuable to be held safely at home with peace of mind, use a Safety Deposit Box at the Bank.

[hcv123]

Originally Posted by ZiggerZagger

Having explored this topic as a complete novice in the past year and coming out of it much wiser, I'd throw in a few key tidbits:

--If you want more than to keep out nosy neighborhood kids, then do NOT buy anything rated as a RSC (Residential Security Container) which is anything from Costco/Walmart/etc. or labeled as a 'Gun Safe'. You need a "Vault".

--Any determined individual with a prybar will have nearly any Safe open within 60 seconds. (Check out YouTube for examples if you don't want to sleep well at night...)

--Layering of security measures is key, with a conventional Alarm/Motion/Camera system as well as concealment both effective layers of security in addition to the Safe itself.

--Best rule of thumb is to invest in Steel -- Use your $$$ to buy as thick of steel gauge for the body and door of the safe as possible. This is all that truly provides resilience to an attack. This also necessarily increases the weight of the safe. A decent Vault is going to be 1000 lbs plus. Anything less will fall under an RSC definition, typically.

--I would strongly recommend enlisting a local safe/security company who specializes in this area of work.

--Be sure to bolt the Safe to your foundation/floor once mounted. All Safes of even modest size have pre-drilled holes in the bottom, and not bolting it down will allow the Safe to be tipped and attacked from the side, where the Body is typically much thinner gauge steel than the Door.

--If the collection is too valuable to be held safely at home with peace of mind, use a Safety Deposit Box at the Bank.

I echo the above sentiments completely. Did a lot of homework too. Put all the good stuff in safe deposit box. Have house alarm and cameras.

[pawpawdiv9]

i got 2 safes. One is the Sentry Safe (in case I take some cards somewhere) and the other is a bigger electronic one.
I work in the construction field and know a bit about fire-ratings. Best is concrete-blocks(2-4hr if solid). Then the thick 1" inch stuff (core-board) used in elevator shafts. Then its your basic 5/8 sheetrock (1hr). Also, theres a mineral wool insulation that's reisitant (we call rock-wool)
Back to the safes. Buy the best rating...it just means it will stay below 350 degrees for that certain amount of time.
But keep in mind, paper discolors at 350 degrees (as I read somewhere)
So, keep in mind, not just the safe you select, think where your putting it as well.
Best bet- is the bank.